Weekly Feature Archives

The Journey

Posted May 14, 2008

I’m believer in positive thinking. But in August I found myself wondering about the disconnect between believing in the bright side and giving it lip service. On a trip to the Lotus Flower Tower in Canada’s Cirque of the Unclimbables, Ian Altman and his multiple sclerosis showed me how unyielding persistence can bridge this gap.

Nakamura: Steward of Unclimbed Peaks

Posted May 7, 2008

With the advent of GIS, satellite images and other advanced cartographic applications, it seems the world is growing smaller by the minute. But long-time Alpinist contributor Tamotsu Nakamura—though he began his explorations after the Golden Age of Mountaineering ended—begs to differ.

Remembering Cesarino Fava

Posted April 30, 2008

Alpinist remembers Cesarino Fava, who died on April 22, 2008 in Male, Italy. Share your thoughts and photos of Fava, whose greatest love were the peaks of Argentine and Chilean Patagonia.

Inspirations, Part VI: Marko Prezelj

Posted April 23, 2008

Marko Prezelj shares his inspiration: Pot (The Way). "My 'way' has changed over time, but Zaplotnik's foundations remain and continue to inspire."

Inspirations, Part V: The Wisdom of Exploration

Posted April 16, 2008

Damien Gildea shares his inspirations. "Repeats were given a line or two at most. Details were scarce, photos grainy—but how much help do you want? That approach, including only the essential and knowing what to leave out, reflected one of the basic tenets of alpinism. And all without the narrow-minded, style-as-dogma hectoring we get now from wannabe alpine prophets."

130 Kilometers an Hour in the Wrong Lane

Posted April 9, 2008

Smuggling climbing hardware onto planes, destroying rental cars, and climbing excellent limestone routes—the second part of an adventure series on Spain by photographer and writer Traveler Taj Terpening.

Inspirations, Part IV: High Conquest

Posted April 2, 2008

Royal Robbins shares his inspiration: High Conquest. "It's basically a history of mountaineering, but its most salient point is that the 'high conquest' of the title is not truly getting to the top of the highest peaks; it's the conquest of those weak and timid parts of ourselves we don't want running the show."

South Georgia: A Photo Essay

Posted March 26, 2008

Follow French alpinists through poor weather, unexpected obstacles, rough seas and defensive sea lion colonies on their crossing of South Georgia in the southern Atlantic.

Chile: The Crusade for Virgin Rock

Posted March 19, 2008

"Long periods of high pressure, steep granite, moderate glaciers, 'short' approaches from base camp and 500-meter virgin walls seemed the norm in Brujo del Torres. The more research we did, the more we convinced ourselves we had found El Dorado..."

High Crimes, Chapter 11

Posted March 12, 2008

The following story—an excerpt from the recently released nonfiction novel High Crimes—reveals the dark underbelly of high-altitude mountaineering: the loss of valuables, the loss of life.