Weekly Feature Archives

Dirtbaggery, Vol. 1: Just Seam Grip It

Posted September 19, 2012

Just Seam Grip It! - The art, and adhesive, of gear improvement.

Squamish Gondola Project Receives Initial Approval

Posted May 24, 2012

The mecca of Canadian granite, the Stawamus Chief in Squamish, British Columbia may soon see a new development. The Sea to Sky Gondola Corporation is the central proponent of a new project which aims to build a gondola to ferry passengers from the base of Shannon Falls by the Chief parking lot to the top of a ridge leading to the summit of nearby Mount Habrich. With a projected construction cost in the region of $20 million (CAD), the rides will cost approximately $29 a head.

The Ice Warriors

Posted April 23, 2012

First my aim was to reach people who do not know much about mountaineering. Especially those people who would probably never read a thick book about it. If I am successful with this then I hope they would find some interesting information about climbing, winter climbing, the history of mountaineering and also about Polish achievements in climbing.

Dukkha on Funeral For a Friend

Posted April 11, 2012

Birth is Dukkha, aging is Dukkha, death is Dukkha; sorrow, lamentation, pain, grief, and despair are Dukkha; association with the unbeloved is Dukkha; separation from the loved is Dukkha; not getting what is wanted is Dukkha. In short, the five clinging-aggregates are Dukkha.


Posted April 6, 2012

The social climate of the Caucasus was rocked politically and economically by these measures. "The area is still dangerous may be even more than before...due to the year-long economic blockade, the local people became more desperate and chance of being robbed or killed for the reason of robbery is very obvious," writes Alex Trubachev, a guide based in Moscow whose company has halted their Elbrus tours. "Locals have lost everything—two seasons of nothing," agrees Myasnikov.

Cerro Torre Roundup

Posted April 2, 2012

Since Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed a "fair means" variation to the Compressor Route and then removed the bolts from its upper pitches the international climbing community has been awash in discussions of climbing ethics and etiquette. In what will most likely be Alpinist.com's final post on this story we have gathered a collection of links to various Op-Ed's, blog posts, threads and Letters to the Editor here. We will continue to update this page with new links rather than creating new NewsWires should this story continue to develop. - Keese Lane, Online Editor

2012 American Alpine Club Benefit Dinner

Posted March 15, 2012

Abruzzi was a duke. Cassin was a steel worker. Perry-Smith came from family money. Heckmair was a gardener. The climbing community has always spanned the gap between those with the independent wealth to travel and climb, and those who have forsaken everything else for the mountains. I cannot claim to be as destitute as Heckmair or as dedicated as Cassin, but I always felt some jealousy for my partners' racks of shiny new cams and wiregates. My gear came off the consignment rack of the local gear exchange. The AAC Benefit Dinner was the territory of the higher end leisure class and a strange window into a society many of us at the other end of the spectrum barely understand or know about.

Exploring The Alps

Posted February 23, 2012

It is more intuitive to pursue "the new" in remote and unexplored mountains, as opposed to a well-known range. "It is often difficult to be alone in the Alps," Barmasse writes, citing the proliferation of guided climbing, staffed huts and ski lifts that bring vacationers to nearly all peaks. Barmasse wanted to experience the "authentic alpinism" that he found in distant mountains to his own backyard range. He wanted to try to keep the spirit of adventure alive, even in familiar and well-trodden territory. "These ancient and maybe old fashioned mountains, if explored from a new perspective, could be a foundation for alpinism of the future."

Grosvenor Sees Third Ascent

Posted January 27, 2012

First light revealed our next challenge; an eight-inch strip of ice transecting the rock band above. We packed up, and I started climbing. A few delicate tool placements and some dry tooling allowed access to the more moderate slope above. Shortly after Jeff began to simulclimb with me, I found myself at another intimidating challenge, another section of vertical, rotten "snice." I did my best to not pull the pitch down on myself and, fortunately, was able to place a cam halfway up.