Weekly Feature Archives

Video: Fitz Traverse

Posted January 8, 2015

Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold travel to Patagonia to find the limit of their capabilities, and "do the kind of stuff [they] see in Alpinist Magazine."

Video: Aid Turns Free on Mt. Hooker

Posted December 31, 2014

Inspired during a trip to Wyoming's Wind River Range the previous season, David Allfrey, Nik Berry and Mason Earle returned to the Winds this August to free an A3 route on Mt. Hooker. Kyle Berkompas filmed their project.

Slideshow: Unclimbed Big Walls of Siberia

Posted December 29, 2014

Inspired by a single photo, Australians Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner visit unclimbed big walls in remote northeastern Russia. Pulling out moss clumps and excavating gear placements with a nut tool, the team established six new routes and, with their camera, captured the experience.

Remembering Eric Bjornstad, Desert Rat of the Old School

Posted December 19, 2014

One desert icon remembers the life of another.

Alpine-Style Attempts on the South Face of Nuptse

Posted December 9, 2014

Two Canadian alpinists dodge large avalanches on the storied South Face of Nuptse. None of their several attempts extends beyond half height on the massive alpine wall, but—through careful decision-making—they live to tell the story.

Short Film: K6 West

Posted December 1, 2014

Raphael Slawinski, Ian Welsted and Jesse Huey travel to Pakistan to climb K6 West. At the moment of their departure down the KKH, they learn of the massacre at Nanga Parbat base camp. Each is now faced with a decision. As Jesse returns home, Raphael and Ian continue with the trip and ultimately stand on the 7040m unclimbed summit.

To Know

Posted November 26, 2014

In the final installment of our series of essays about climbing in the High Sierra's Palisades group, Steve Porcella quests for the "remote, barren, trailless, treeless, oxygenless and peopleless," where he finds out what it is to really know a mountain range.

Back(side) Pain

Posted November 24, 2014

"Sixty-five Sierra routes that first summer; about a dozen the next, a fifth of them first ascents. Brutal-as-hell approaches with seventy-pound packs, decrepit knees and bad footwear. I blame Steve, but really, he and I were just the syringe plungers, and the Sierra Nevada was the heroin."

More than a Mountain

Posted November 21, 2014

Peter Croft ambles along "the local epicenter of sideways mountaineering"—the High Sierra's Palisades—in his own Peter Croft kind of way.

The Nature of Memory

Posted November 20, 2014

Joan Jensen searches through old boxes to uncover memories of her daring yet methodical soulmate, the late Don Jensen.