Weekly Feature Archives

Video: Speed Ascent of El Cap's Zenyatta Mondatta

Posted June 2, 2015

On October 3, 2014, David Allfrey, Skiy DeTray and Cheyne Lempe climbed the 16-pitch A4 El Capitan testpiece Zenyatta Mondatta, shaving several hours off the speed record. Yesterday, DeTray's cousin Dave Coy sent us an 8.5-minute film, containing footage he captured during their climb.

"Give Everest a Break:" An Interview with Norbu Tenzing Norgay

Posted June 1, 2015

We talk with Norbu Tenzing Norgay, son of Tenzing Norgay Sherpa (who summited Mt. Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953), to learn about the unfolding humanitarian crisis on Everest.

Reflecting on A Friend's Climbing Path

Posted May 28, 2015

Ten years after a brutal fall left him shattered, James Lucas achieved a life-long goal: a free ascent of Freerider on El Capitan in a single day. Jens Holsten reflects on his friend's accomplishment, and on a life committed to climbing.

New Mixed Climbs on Norway's Senja Island

Posted May 22, 2015

Senja Island, the second largest island in Norway, is a spectacular and pristine land that faces the open Norwegian Sea on the country's ragged northwest coast. The coastal region, with its fickle winter weather, is perfect for mixed climbing protected by trad gear.

The Call

Posted May 13, 2015

Lately I've been missing the quiet wilderness of Argentina and have been feeling the pull to return to the simplicity of those windy peaks on the edge of the Southern Hemisphere. In 2002 I visited the smoking mountains of El Chalten and entered into perhaps the most powerful flow state I've ever experienced. The Call describes this vague process. I don't understand it any better today than I did back then, but every moment I'm pursuing my arts is an attempt to further the deepness of these elevated states.— Dean S. Potter

Never Ending

Posted May 7, 2015

Last week, we published a NewsWire by Jens Holsten on the 1,250-foot alpine route he and Vern Nelson Jr. established in the Cascade Mountains in memory of alpinist Chad Kellogg. As a follow-up, Holsten agreed to republish his story Never Ending from Alpinist 47 on his travels with Kellogg in the Cascades and their last climb together in Patagonia.

First All-Female Ascent of Cerro Torre via the Ragni Route

Posted April 25, 2015

On February 21, 2015, Caroline (Caro) North and Christina Huber (AU) reached the summit of 10,262-foot Cerro Torre via the Ragni Route (M4 90 degrees, 600m), marking the first all-female team ascent, done free and unsupported, of the Patagonian tower.

American Horror Story: A Climber's Obsession

Posted April 23, 2015

I first noticed the line, at the Sabbatical Wall in Indian Creek, Utah, last spring. I was mesmerized by its 150-foot wildly overhanging dihedral system composed of multiple offwidth roofs, all set on alluring red-brown Wingate 200 feet off the ground.

Profile: Ken Yager, Winner of the David R. Brower Conservation Award

Posted April 20, 2015

It was love at first sight when Ken Yager met Yosemite Valley for the first time in 1972. Living in Davis, California, 13-year-old Yager and his parents drove five hours east in the family car to Yosemite. The first thing he wanted to see in the Valley was El Capitan, a 3,000-foot-high granite monolith that loomed above the valley floor.

Craig Muderlak: Coloring Outside the Lines

Posted April 16, 2015

"The adventure for the race was unknown, and it could have been over my head," Craig Muderlak says. "With most of my illustrations, I don't know how they'll turn out and I have no guarantee of a good outcome."