Weekly Feature Archives

On Belay: Unattached

Posted March 8, 2017

In this On Belay article from Alpinist 57, Anna Pfaff describes her adventures as she becomes "unattached" from maps, expectations and conventions and learns to find her own way into some of the unknown realms beyond.

Off Belay: Beyond Conquest

Posted March 7, 2017

In this excerpt from Alpinist 57 Mailee Hung explores artwork by Richard T. Walker that "casts unease on traditional aspirations" and helps us consider "how to describe the aesthetic experience of climbing beyond this inherited legacy" of alpinists as conquerors.

Local Hero: Loulou Boulaz

Posted March 3, 2017

During the 1930s, one woman joined the race to climb the feared north faces of the Alps, venturing into terrain then believed to be reserved for only the boldest (and some claimed the most reckless) men. In this Local Hero from Alpinist 57, Sallie Greenwood looks back on the extraordinary, often-forgotten life of Swiss alpinist Louise "Loulou" Boulaz.

2017: Ghunsa

Posted February 24, 2017

Local guide Dawa Sherpa describes what it's like to live and work near the base of Jannu/Kumbhakarna—a mountain sacred to his culture.

2007: Open

Posted February 23, 2017

Russian alpinist Sergey Kofanov recounts his 2007 encounter with the “cosmic cold” shoulder of Jannu, when he and Valery Babanov made the first ascent of the West Pillar in alpine style.

Poetry Feature: Chip Brown

Posted February 22, 2017

In an Alpinist exclusive poetry feature, award-winning outdoor writer Chip Brown imagines the landscape of the Yukon within the sounds of the city, and in an interview he reflects on the connection between climbing and poetry.

1976-2016: Jannu Remembrances

Posted February 22, 2017

The great Japanese mountaineer Naoe Sakashita looks back on the first complete ascent of the north face of Jannu / Kumbhakarna to the summit of the 7710-meter Himalayan peak, and on his friendship with teammate Nobu-yuki Ogawa.

1975: New Zealand Expedition Jannu North Face

Posted February 21, 2017

In 1975 New Zealand climber Graeme Dingle joined an expedition to the legendary Wall of Shadows on Jannu / Kumbhakarna, a 7710-meter peak in Nepal. High on the mountain, he looked up at an immense ice formation that seemed about to collapse. "You can't tell me those cliffs are safe," he said. "This is as far as I'm going."

Alpinist 57 Mountain Profile Essays | Jannu

Posted February 20, 2017

Read all four essays by Graeme Dingle, Naoe Sakashita, Sergey Kofanov and Dawa Sherpa from our Mountain Profile of Jannu / Kumbhakarna in Alpinist 57—Spring 2017.

Roland Pauligk (1938-2017): The man who changed climbing with his brass micronuts

Posted February 18, 2017

Ross Taylor grew up as a family friend of Roland Pauligk, the man who created the brass "RP" micronuts that revolutionized rock climbing in the 1970s and are still essential gear at many cliffs today. Taylor recounts an influential life well lived since Pauligk died of cancer January 22.