Weekly Feature Archives

Remembering Tim Auger

Posted August 14, 2018

Tim Auger died on August 9, 2018, in Banff, Alberta, at age 72. The following story is an excerpt from a feature by Brandon Pullan titled "Homage" that appeared in Alpinist 42. Auger was an influential Canadian climber who served Parks Canada for approximately three decades. One of his most famous first ascents was the University Wall on the Chief at Squamish with Dan Tate, Glenn Woodsworth and Hamish Mutch in 1965-66.

A2: The Highest Mountain in the World (1819)

Posted August 10, 2018

In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 62, Stewart Weaver documents the early mapping of Nanda Devi and the initial belief that it was the highest mountain in the world.

A retrospective on the second winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, the heroic rescue and the logistical and financial challenges of helicopter operations in Pakistan

Posted August 7, 2018

Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz completed the second winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in alpine style on January 25, but they got into trouble on the descent as a storm was building. What unfolded over the next several days became a demonstration of heroism and solidarity in the international mountain community, as people from different nations worked together to try to help the stranded climbers. It also raised questions about modern rescues in remote mountains—about the limits of possibilities; about best practices in a digital and increasingly technological age; and about disparities between which groups of people receive the most help.

'End of the Rope': Courage and Humor on the Cliffs and on the Ground

Posted July 25, 2018

Jan Redford's new memoir, "End of the Rope: Mountains, Marriage, and Motherhood," takes the reader on her journey of rebelling against her family and society's expectations, navigating relationships and loss on her own terms and pursuing the potential she knows she has despite obstacles. It's the work of a vulnerable and hard-earned courage, open to trial and error on a climb as well as on the ground.

Responsibility is a Gift: OR trade show provides a glimpse of outdoor industry's impacts and influence

Posted July 23, 2018

As the Summer Outdoor Retailer trade show heats up in Denver, Emma Murray and Sara Aranda take a look back at the winter trade show that was held in January and some of the events since then to consider how the outdoor industry is addressing environmental, social and political issues.

1939: The Eye of the Storm

Posted July 18, 2018

In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 62, Julia Pulwicki translates Janusz Klarner's account of the first ascent of Nanda Devi East in 1939 by Klarner's Polish team. This essay is part of an extensive two-part feature by Pete Takeda that includes other essays by various authors as well as this one.

Sentinels of the Alpine

Posted July 11, 2018

Katherine Indermaur considers her connection to alpine environments and the history represented by the lodgepole pine.

To Look the Bear in the Eye; The Life of Yasushi Yamanoi

Posted July 6, 2018

In this story from Alpinist 62, Sartaj Ghuman chronicles the adventures of Yasushi Yamanoi. At 53 years old, Yamanoi has survived multiple epics in the mountains. He remains a talented climber despite lost fingers and toes, broken teeth and bones and other severe injuries. He is on the long list for the 2018 Piolets d'Or for a first ascent he did last year with Takaaki Furuhata of a 5970-meter peak in India's Zanskar Range. Ghuman was their liaison officer and, after meeting Yamanoi, he wanted to write about the low-key man who has been making significant high-altitude first ascents for decades—in pure alpine style.

Full Circle: how and why Sunny Stroeer became the first woman (and third person) to finish Aconcagua's 360 Route in a solo push

Posted June 27, 2018

Sunny Stroeer became the first woman (and third person) to complete Aconcagua's 360 Route in a solo push last February. For this story, Emma Murray asked Stroeer how she went from being a student who rarely ventured outside town—even when Stroeer lived in Switzerland's "outdoor capital of the world"—to an ambitious outdoor athlete, and what motivates her to keep pushing her limits.

A dusty box of golden memories: photos from the life of Kim Schmitz (1946-2016)

Posted June 26, 2018

Savannah Cummins befriended the legendary alpinist Kim Schmitz in recent years when they were living in Jackson, Wyoming. Schmitz gave Cummins a box of old photos shortly before he died in a one-car accident in September 2016 at age 70. Rick Ridgeway, John Roskelley and Jack Tackle assisted in identifying some of the images, and in honor of Kim's memory, we share some of his collection with you now.



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