Weekly Feature Archives

"Honouring High Places": A Lifetime of Exploring "Unforgiving Terrain"

Posted September 14, 2018

"Honouring High Places"—the final book authored by Junko Tabei, who died in 2016 at age 77 and was the first woman to summit Chomolungma (Everest)—is now available and is a finalist for a Banff Book award. Alpinist Assistant Editor Katherine Indermaur writes of the book: "Though there are many lessons to take away from Tabei's life, perhaps the most important is not just how and what she climbed, but also how and what she accomplished as a mountaineer when she wasn't climbing...."

An interview with Suman Dubey about his memories of the 1961 Indian expedition to Nanda Devi

Posted September 13, 2018

With Alpinist 63 and Part II of the Nanda Devi Mountain Profile now on newsstands, we bring you this interview with Suman Dubey, who became a member of the 1961 Indian expedition to the Nanda Devi Sanctuary in India's Garhwal Himalaya when he was an undergraduate student in Delhi. Nanda Devi is a sacred peak significant to locals for embodying Hindu Goddess Nanda, and a difficult one for mountaineers due to its being surrounded by a ring of high peaks that make up the Sanctuary's border.

Safety Means More than a Good Belay

Posted August 27, 2018

American Alpine Club President Deanne Buck and Club CEO Phil Powers share their perspective as to why the results of a recent survey about sexual harassment and sexual assault within climbing communities should be taken seriously by everyone.

Out from the Shadows: Sexual Harassment and Assault in Climbing Communities

Posted August 27, 2018

From April 16 to July 4, in collaboration with other national climbing organizations and magazines, we undertook a survey on the topic of sexual harassment and assault in the climbing world. In this article we share some of the results.

Remembering Tim Auger

Posted August 14, 2018

Tim Auger died on August 9, 2018, in Banff, Alberta, at age 72. The following story is an excerpt from a feature by Brandon Pullan titled "Homage" that appeared in Alpinist 42. Auger was an influential Canadian climber who served Parks Canada for approximately three decades. One of his most famous first ascents was the University Wall on the Chief at Squamish with Dan Tate, Glenn Woodsworth and Hamish Mutch in 1965-66.

A2: The Highest Mountain in the World (1819)

Posted August 10, 2018

In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 62, Stewart Weaver documents the early mapping of Nanda Devi and the initial belief that it was the highest mountain in the world.

A retrospective on the second winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, the heroic rescue and the logistical and financial challenges of helicopter operations in Pakistan

Posted August 7, 2018

Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz completed the second winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in alpine style on January 25, but they got into trouble on the descent as a storm was building. What unfolded over the next several days became a demonstration of heroism and solidarity in the international mountain community, as people from different nations worked together to try to help the stranded climbers. It also raised questions about modern rescues in remote mountains—about the limits of possibilities; about best practices in a digital and increasingly technological age; and about disparities between which groups of people receive the most help.

'End of the Rope': Courage and Humor on the Cliffs and on the Ground

Posted July 25, 2018

Jan Redford's new memoir, "End of the Rope: Mountains, Marriage, and Motherhood," takes the reader on her journey of rebelling against her family and society's expectations, navigating relationships and loss on her own terms and pursuing the potential she knows she has despite obstacles. It's the work of a vulnerable and hard-earned courage, open to trial and error on a climb as well as on the ground.

Responsibility is a Gift: OR trade show provides a glimpse of outdoor industry's impacts and influence

Posted July 23, 2018

As the Summer Outdoor Retailer trade show heats up in Denver, Emma Murray and Sara Aranda take a look back at the winter trade show that was held in January and some of the events since then to consider how the outdoor industry is addressing environmental, social and political issues.

1939: The Eye of the Storm

Posted July 18, 2018

In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 62, Julia Pulwicki translates Janusz Klarner's account of the first ascent of Nanda Devi East in 1939 by Klarner's Polish team. This essay is part of an extensive two-part feature by Pete Takeda that includes other essays by various authors as well as this one.