Weekly Feature Archives

Latok I: Impossible Is Not Forever

Posted November 29, 2018

In this story that first appeared in Alpinist 64, Alexander Gukov shares his experience of surviving alone for a week at 6200 meters on Latok I (7145m) after his partner Sergey Glazunov fell to his death on the descent with most of their equipment. Gukov was ultimately rescued by a dramatic helicopter operation flown by Pakistani pilots Major Qazi Muhammad Mazhar-ud-Din, Major Abid Rafique, Lieutenant Colonel Muhammad Anjum Rafique and Major Fakhar-e-Abbas. Prior to the accident, Gukov and Glazunov reached a historic high point on the legendary North Ridge, which has thwarted the previous four decades of attempts.

Ride the Wind; Wind River Range, Wyoming

Posted October 10, 2018

In this On Belay story from Alpinist 63, Szu-ting Yi recounts an attempt she made with her husband Dave Anderson to traverse 100-plus miles of the Wind River Range while climbing all 43 of its peaks that rise along the Continental Divide (and that are named in 2015 USGS maps). What started as a whimsical project for Yi soon transformed into a deeper search for independence as a woman and a climber.

"As Above, So Below" uses fiction to explore the realities of risk and relationships

Posted October 5, 2018

About four years ago, Chris Kalman found himself struggling with heavy emotions while living with his girlfriend and her father who was dying of cancer. Kalman started writing what became a 103-page novella titled "As Above, So Below." The fictional story weighs on matters of death, grief, risk and family relationships.

The Giri-Giri Boys

Posted September 29, 2018

Ten years ago, in May 2008, an unassuming group of five Japanese climbers who jokingly dubbed themselves the Giri-Giri Boys caught the world's attention for their bold and visionary enchainments in the Alaska Range. This story by Katsutaka Yokoyama about that expedition originally appeared in Alpinist 26 (Spring 2009), simply titled "The Giri-Giri Boys."

Silences at Dawn

Posted September 25, 2018

In this Sharp End essay from Alpinist 63, Editor-in-Chief Katie Ives contemplates the varying meanings of awe as she delves into mountain darkness and solitude in search of peace.

"Honouring High Places": A Lifetime of Exploring "Unforgiving Terrain"

Posted September 14, 2018

"Honouring High Places"—the final book authored by Junko Tabei, who died in 2016 at age 77 and was the first woman to summit Chomolungma (Everest)—is now available and is a finalist for a Banff Book award. Alpinist Assistant Editor Katherine Indermaur writes of the book: "Though there are many lessons to take away from Tabei's life, perhaps the most important is not just how and what she climbed, but also how and what she accomplished as a mountaineer when she wasn't climbing...."

An interview with Suman Dubey about his memories of the 1961 Indian expedition to Nanda Devi

Posted September 13, 2018

With Alpinist 63 and Part II of the Nanda Devi Mountain Profile now on newsstands, we bring you this interview with Suman Dubey, who became a member of the 1961 Indian expedition to the Nanda Devi Sanctuary in India's Garhwal Himalaya when he was an undergraduate student in Delhi. Nanda Devi is a sacred peak significant to locals for embodying Hindu Goddess Nanda, and a difficult one for mountaineers due to its being surrounded by a ring of high peaks that make up the Sanctuary's border.

Safety Means More than a Good Belay

Posted August 27, 2018

American Alpine Club President Deanne Buck and Club CEO Phil Powers share their perspective as to why the results of a recent survey about sexual harassment and sexual assault within climbing communities should be taken seriously by everyone.

Out from the Shadows: Sexual Harassment and Assault in Climbing Communities

Posted August 27, 2018

From April 16 to July 4, in collaboration with other national climbing organizations and magazines, we undertook a survey on the topic of sexual harassment and assault in the climbing world. In this article we share some of the results.

Remembering Tim Auger

Posted August 14, 2018

Tim Auger died on August 9, 2018, in Banff, Alberta, at age 72. The following story is an excerpt from a feature by Brandon Pullan titled "Homage" that appeared in Alpinist 42. Auger was an influential Canadian climber who served Parks Canada for approximately three decades. One of his most famous first ascents was the University Wall on the Chief at Squamish with Dan Tate, Glenn Woodsworth and Hamish Mutch in 1965-66.