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Posted February 23, 2012
It is more intuitive to pursue "the new" in remote and unexplored mountains, as opposed to a well-known range. "It is often difficult to be alone in the Alps," Barmasse writes, citing the proliferation of guided climbing, staffed huts and ski lifts that bring vacationers to nearly all peaks. Barmasse wanted to experience the "authentic alpinism" that he found in distant mountains to his own backyard range. He wanted to try to keep the spirit of adventure alive, even in familiar and well-trodden territory. "These ancient and maybe old fashioned mountains, if explored from a new perspective, could be a foundation for alpinism of the future."
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Posted January 27, 2012
First light revealed our next challenge; an eight-inch strip of ice transecting the rock band above. We packed up, and I started climbing. A few delicate tool placements and some dry tooling allowed access to the more moderate slope above. Shortly after Jeff began to simulclimb with me, I found myself at another intimidating challenge, another section of vertical, rotten "snice." I did my best to not pull the pitch down on myself and, fortunately, was able to place a cam halfway up.
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Posted November 3, 2011
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Posted October 6, 2011
"I still view my first Whitbred Round The World race in 1977 as my most memorable sailing achievement. I was going out into the unknown. We were out of touch the whole time. Radios didn't work and we had no GPS; I was navigating with a sexton. I just disappeared after the start, and arrived thirty days later in New Zealand."
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Posted October 5, 2011
"[T]here is a lot of common ground (between sailing and climbing)... When you're climbing, the general rhythm is that you have an anchor, a rest and then you scurry to the next spot to put your anchor in. And do it all over again. With sailing, you just stretch out the time scale by some years (and the expense by quite a number of zeros after the comma).
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Posted October 5, 2011
In 2010, Scottish skipper/ex-priest Bob Shepton "lured" Belgians Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and American Ben Ditto to the coast of Greenland with photos of a virgin wall, whose location he refused to disclose until they hired him to take them there. The climbers put up several new big-wall routes, using Shepton's sailboat—Dodo's Delight—as their floating base camp.
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Posted September 20, 2011
A rope length away from the summit of Ala Izquierda in Bolivia, Isabel Suppe was pulled from her perch on the summit ridge and tumbled 400m. She and her partner spent the following two nights in the open, trying to crawl back to camp. Her partner died of hypothermia during the second night, and she was rescued the next day. One year later, Isabel hobbled to the base of Serkhe Khollu on crutches, and put up a new line on the southwest face of this 5546-meter peak.
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Posted August 24, 2011
Two videos show how a day in the life of Renan Ozturk changed (and didn't change) after a near-fatal accident.
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Posted July 30, 2011
Still gripping his axe, Eliot hung over the water. We pulled him back from being crushed. He didn't whine, whimper or scream out; there was no indication of his pain besides the funny way he rolled his next cigarette.
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Posted July 20, 2011
They began by traveling the only paved road in the country—and then driving 700 kilometers farther.
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