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When John Bachar first approached what would become the runout, 5.11c X Bachar-Yerian in 1981 he feared the route would succumb to bolting on rappel, a new threat to unclimbed lines in Yosemite. So he devoted a week to perfecting the art of aid-hooking crystals, then drilling bolts from precarious stances before recruiting Dave Yerian for their successful push.

Though it was ground up, for some, the Bachar-Yerian initiated a shift away from pure “traditional” ethics. Click here to read Tom Higgins's perspective on that shift and his take on climbing style issues today. Alpinist subscribers will catch Higgins's Crag Report in Issue 27 on Pinnacles National Monument in California, due out mid-July. Subscribe today (enter promotion code ALPHC1 for 33% off).

Ueli Steck returns from a US road trip. See the tick list and tell us your summer climbing plans!