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I began that day with an urgent desire to get the hell out of there. Atop brushy pedestals, the left side of an ancient, monolithic, hourglass-shaped flake spiraled and soared for hundreds of feet up Ribbon Falls’ East Buttress until the whole awful shimmering image vanished into the light of the sky. During the first ascent in 1962, Bob Kamps aided the wide cracks and the big roof with pairs of bongs placed back to back, crosswise and slung, as if he were building a giant house of cards. Chuck Pratt proclaimed the route the last important free-climbing problem in Yosemite.

In Alpinist 35 Peter Haan describes his experience making the first free ascent of “The Left Side of the Hourglass.” Alpinist recently sat down with Peter to talk about his experiences climbing in Yosemite. Click in for selections from the interview.


Jetboil Sol Advanced Cooking System. Now available at www.jetboil.com.