Carl Battreall: A Collection of Climbed and Unclimbed Alaska Peaks


The Northwest ridge of Mt. Moffit (13,020'); Mount Shand, (12,660'), is the peak lit in the background. William Shand Jr., who was on the first ascent team in 1942, was killed in a car accident a few months after the climb. Mt. Moffit was supposed to be named after him, unfortunately, a mistake was made and the neighboring peak was given the name Mt. Shand instead. [Read about Colin Haley's first ascent of his route, The Entropy, on Mt. Moffit here—Ed.] [Photo] Carl Battreall

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I appreciate the time and effort taken to document some of our lovely unclimbed prizes up here. However there are couple things folks should be aware of, perhaps others have already made these comments but I will shoot since I am taking a look at this for the first time. First, the NW Ridge of Moffit has been climbed, many times, perhaps we are talking about another route not so far away. Second, the West Ridge of Citadel is not quite the drooler that it appears in the photo, the entire lower buttress can be bypassed on the right. Third, I have heard multiple rumors of the western half of the North face of deborah having seen an ascent. Fourth, death seracs await all who attempt a direct ascent from the Gillam glacier on Deborah, the lower third of the North face is a shooting gallery, not a route. Same could be said of the West Face of Hunter. Have fun out there folks but don't launch without doing some of your own recon! The mountains of remote AK are unforgiving to the inexperienced and overenthusiastic.

2015-04-07 03:17:17
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