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Web - Winter 2014
Alps | Dolomites | Pyrenees
Posted on: February 14, 2014
A new route on the east face between Groucho Marx and the Boivin Diaferia by Max Bionnet and Sebastien Ratel. The third pitch of 750m Borat was led free at 7b, while the fourth was led at 7a with some aid, but followed free at 7b.
On the north face Robert Jasper (Germany) and Roger Schali (Switzerland) made a rare repeat and first free ascent of the Ghilini-Piola Direttissima. The two climbed the 1400m route in 14-hour day at 7b/c.
New route, solo, on the north face of this Zillertal (Austrian Alps) peak at the start of December by David Lama; Nordverscheidung (400m, UIAA VI/VII WI4 M4/5 90 degrees). Temperatures down to -10 degrees Celsius.
First winter ascent of the Sagwand on the Sagzahn (Zillertal) via the 800m Schiefer Riss by Hansjorg Auer, David Lama and Peter Ortner at VI M7 80 degrees over two days in March.
New mixed route on the north face established over four days in May by Stefano Angelini, Alessandro Beber and Fabrizio Dellai; Argento Vivo (1200m, WI6+ M8 A2 5+).
Wustenblume (400m, VIII+), a new route on this celebrated wall by Josef Hilpold and Ulrich Viertler, was climbed in sections, and with some fixed ropes. However, they used only trad gear, which led to several challenging pitches.
First ascent of La Legrima, a coveted winter line up the north face. The 1,000m climb was carried out over two days in early January by Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder using natural gear. Difficulties are WI6 M6 V+, with two sections of A0.
A winter line based around the classic Fedele route on the northwest face was climbed by Jeff Mercier and Korra Pesce to give Ghost Dogs (750m, WI6 R/X M5 5+/6a). After 550m the two reached the great terrace where they escaped (continuing would have meant climbing the upper section in the sun), but came back the following day and finished the top wall.
Eloi Callado made a complete traverses of the Pyrenees. In a single odyssey it took him 67 days to complete his 1,200km trip, during which he climbed 55 routes, among them Spigolo d'Ansabere (7a+), Embarradere on Ossau (6c+), both hard and classic routes in Gavarnie, and the north face of Vignemale. A total of 25,000m of climbing with most routes graded between 5c and 6b.