Web - Winter 2014

South America

Posted on: February 14, 2014


[Photo] Nestor Galina/Wikimedia Commons

Acopan Tepui

On the southeast face Jeremy Collins, Pat Goodman and Jose Miranda climbed In Gold Blood over five days, and then attempted to free the two crux pitches. They succeeded on one, and the 11-pitch route now has a grade of V 5.12c R A0.

Ranrapalca (6162m)

In June Carlos Esteban Pineda Beyer and Carlos Sole made the first ascent of the central couloir on the north face by the technical and sometimes objectively threatened Learning of our Weaknesses (960m, ED+, 5.10 M6 70-90 degrees). The Venezuelan pair made a non-stop ascent, and descent of the normal route, in 43 hours.

Purscanturpa Este (5410m)

The first ascent of the southeast face of this largely rocky peak in the Cordillera Huayhuash by Japanese Masanobu Noba and Yasushi Yamanoi via Qiumplirgun Swerminganta (800m, ED3, UIAA VII M5+ A1). This may be only the fourth ascent of the mountain.

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Pico del Norte (6050m)

A new route on the northwest face of this Bolivian summit in the Illampu Group, followed by a descent of the northwest ridge, in one long day by Argentinians Gabriel Fava and Carlitos Molina; Neq'e, Neq'e (1000m, F6b+ 60 degrees).

Illimani (6439m)

A new route on the south face of the highest peak of the Cordillera Real, out of season (December), by Bolivian guides Juvenal and Sergio Condori; Jach'a Kuntur Ajayu (1400m to summit, TD, VI WI4 X 5+ M5).

El Monstruo

With various partners Nathan Conroy opened the second new route on the biggest and most remote wall in the Chilean Cochamo region. Conroy began the route in 2012 with his father, having spent many days on previous occasions forging a route to the base of the wall. The 1600m (28 pitches) La Presencia de mi Padre was climbed all free at 5.10+.

Cerro Catedral (2200m)

First free ascent of the east face of this peak in Torres del Paine by Merlin Didier, Stephane Hanssens and Sean Villanueva. The trio fixed some ropes then spent a week on the wall climbing capsule style. Los Fabulosos Dos (1000m, 7c+) is a variation on La Escoba de Dios. They also made the first free ascent of the east face of Cerro Cota 2000, in capsule style (500m, 7c+).

North Tower of Paine (2260m)

First ascent of Plate Tectonics on the east face in a 15-day capsule style push. Mylas Moser and Amy Ness climbed the 900m route in 21 pitches (VI 5.12 C1-).

Torres del Paine

First integral traverse of the three main Paine towers by Pedro Cifuentes over 29 days in January-February. Completing the entire skyline the Spanish climber used previously cached food and gear, and at one stage spent eight days confined to his portaledge.

Torre Egger (2850m)

The west face was climbed by Matteo della Bordella and Luca Schiera to give Notti Magiche (1000m, 7a A2 WI4). The three completed the route in a three-day push, but jugged some of the fixed ropes left on previous attempts. Six bolts were placed, though others were in-situ from past attempts. They removed all the fixed ropes before leaving.

Fitz Roy (3405m)

On the east face Luka Kranjc and Tajej Kreselj from Slovenia climbed The Real Kekec in four days to the summit. There is ca 800m of new climbing on the Goretta Pillar, right of the Diedro del Diablo, above which the two followed the Casarotto route to the top. Difficulties on this 1200m ascent were VI 5.11+ A2.

Fitz Roy (3405m)

New route on the north face, left of the French Northwest Ridge, by Luciano Fiorenza and Sergio Tartari (Argentina) in three days; Samba do Leao (1300m, 6b+).

Fitz Roy (3405m)

In a continuous ascent of 31 hours (46 hours round trip) Stephane Hanssens and Sean Villanueva climbed a new route on the north face left of the French Northwest ridge. They climbed new ground to the Grand Hotel, where they crossed Samba do Leao, and finished up the top section of El Flanco con Domingo. Every pitch was on-sighted except for one, where they lowered for the red point: Persiguiendo el Avion (1800m, 900m of new ground, 7b+).

Monte Sarmiento (2235m)

Second overall and first winter ascent of the main summit of Sarmiento in Tierra del Fuego by Natalia Martinez (Argentina) and Camilo Rada (Chile). The pair followed glacier slopes to the 400m north face, which they climbed in eight pitches to create Suerte de Sarmiento (D+, generally 60-ca. 90 degrees, but with a crux rimaye giving five metres of 110 degrees, which they aided).



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