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Slideshow: A Busy Season in the Revelations


 

The west face of ca. 9,300-foot Titanic Peak showing Clint Helander and Graham Zimmerman's new route (5.8 M6 50 degrees, 4,000'). [Photo] Graham Zimmerman

In an attempt to "mop up more projects in the area," Helander and Zimmerman arrived in the Revelations on the coattails of the Canadians' expedition. "On April 21st at 4:30 a.m., we set off under a gorgeous showing from the Aurora Borealis, walking 4 kilometers to the base of the route," Zimmerman wrote. "The climb started with 1,700 feet of steep snow climbing that led us to a contact between the lower quality rock of the lower buttress and the gorgeous white granite of the upper. From here the climbing turned to high-quality mixed climbing with beautiful chimney and corner cruxes. As the sun came up, the route became drier and we rock climbed for 1,000 feet on granite that was at times impeccable and at times total choss. "

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Comments
alpinist

Thanks for your close attention, Steve! You are correct—the Angel was first climbed by Greg Collins and Tom Walter who authored several climbs at the head of the Revelations Glacier in 1985. Their ascent followed the southeast buttress and went unreported for several years. For more on the history of the Angel, click here: www.alpinist.com/doc/web13w/wfeature-mugs-2012-helander —Ed.

2014-06-30 17:21:01
Steve Gruhn

Not to take anything away from the accomplishments of Kris Irwin, Darren Vonk, and Ian Welsted, but "previously unclimbed 9265-foot" The Angel was first climbed in 1985 by Greg Collins and Tom Walter. Rumors of a 1986 ascent persist. Clint Helander and Ben Trocki climbed The Angel on April 3, 2012, and Scott Bennett and Graham Zimmerman reached the summit in the summer of 2013.

2014-06-27 10:18:00
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