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Slideshow: A Busy Season in the Revelations


 

Irwin leads towards the first crux on the Dike. [Photo] courtesy of Ian Welsted

While in the mountains, the group attempted to uphold a set of "casual criteria" on each climb: "less than an hour of uphill ski approach from base camp, a walking snow descent down a gully which in the Rockies would have been terrifying and a start no earlier than 10 a.m." While attempting to climb Pyramid Peak, they were hit with light snow and spindrift in a gully ten pitches up and decided to turn around. Welsted mused afterward, "How we failed to register the risk of being in such a gully even with these spindrifts I'm not sure."

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Comments
alpinist

Thanks for your close attention, Steve! You are correct—the Angel was first climbed by Greg Collins and Tom Walter who authored several climbs at the head of the Revelations Glacier in 1985. Their ascent followed the southeast buttress and went unreported for several years. For more on the history of the Angel, click here: www.alpinist.com/doc/web13w/wfeature-mugs-2012-helander —Ed.

2014-06-30 17:21:01
Steve Gruhn

Not to take anything away from the accomplishments of Kris Irwin, Darren Vonk, and Ian Welsted, but "previously unclimbed 9265-foot" The Angel was first climbed in 1985 by Greg Collins and Tom Walter. Rumors of a 1986 ascent persist. Clint Helander and Ben Trocki climbed The Angel on April 3, 2012, and Scott Bennett and Graham Zimmerman reached the summit in the summer of 2013.

2014-06-27 10:18:00
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