Slovenian Revelations

Posted on: August 7, 2012


After extensive research in the American Alpine Journal and conversations with Alaska locals, Slovenians Anze Cokl, Bor Sumrada, Bostjan Virc, Dusan Huc, Grega Anzman, Janez Rutar, Matej Pobenzin, Urban Iglic, Valentina Mravlje, Ziga Fujan, operating under the team moniker "Freeapproved" have established twelve new routes in Alaska's Revelation range. Anze Cokl describes the Revelation Mountains as a "Mountaineer's heaven," and for good reason. All but one of the peaks surrounding the Slovenian team's basecamp were unclimbed prior to the expedition.

Over the course of twenty-three days, the team put up their ascents, climbing the most obvious lines up couloirs, gullies and ridges. Arriving under a spell of clear weather, the team set up base camp atop an unnamed glacier at around 1536 meters. From here, they launched their expedition, climbing and skiing almost every day.

Although the majority of the team's climbs were not particularly technical, the sheer volume of ascents makes the team's efforts noteworthy. Routes like The Final Frontier (V 3-4, 1100m), Sleepwalker (V 4, M5, 700m) and the first ascent of Freeapproved peak (2709m) represent the trip's highlight climbs.

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Below is a list of all the ascents the team made during their expedition.

SW Buttress / 70 degrees / 40-50 degrees, M4, 600 m / Freeapproved Spitz / Greg Azman, Anze Cokl

Serbian couloir / 45 degrees, 580 m / Saddle Peak under David (2278m) / Urban Iglic, Dusan Huc

SW ridge / 45 degrees / Little Ant Peak (2040m) / Valentina ants, Urban Iglic, Dusan Huc

East couloir / 40-45 degrees , 400 m / Frogy pass / Anze Cokl, Matthew Pobe Coklin, Greg Azman

· Baking couloir / 45-65 degrees, 500 m / Spiky Notch (Anze Cokl, Bor Šumrada

S Gendarme of Slovenian Couloir / 150m ridge / Janez Rutar

SW couloir 40 degrees, 350 m / Ziga Fujan Sumrada

S gully 50 degrees, 100m Thin Peak (2158 m) Šumrada Janez Rutar Urban Iglic

The Final Frontier / V/3-4, 1100 m / Freeapproved Peak (2709 m) / Greg Azman, Anze Cokl

My Honey / 55 degrees, 700 (1000) / Three Peak (2236) / Sumrada, Janez Rutar, Matthew Pobezin

Sleepwalker / V / 4, M5, 700 m / Windy Peak (2350 m) / Greg Azman, Anze clogs, Bor Sumrada

Taya / 45 degrees C, UIAA III, 780m / Seven Summits Peak (1807m) / Urban Iglic, Dusan Huc

N Ridge M4, 100 m / David Peak (2438 m) / Greg Azman

S Col Ridge 40 degrees, 350 m / David Peak / SE Ridge Col / Greg Azman, Bor Sumrada

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