Lama Frees Compressor, Bolts Surrendered

Posted on: January 23, 2012


This Newsflash is an update to Kennedy Kruk Climb "Fair Means" Compressor - Chop Bolts, posted on January 23, 2012.

Alpinist has received confirmation that Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk did indeed chop over a hundred bolts off of the Compressor Route, which they voluntarily surrendered to local police. Police detained the two climbers after "a group of forty people [who] went to lynch the Canadian climber Jason Kruk in the parlor of Miguel Burgos..." Kennedy and Kruk are currently in the mountains with friends. They will prepare a press report in the coming days.

In the meantime, planetmountain.com has reported that David Lama, a climber familiar with Cerro Torre controversies, has successfully free climbed the Compressor Route. Details about Lama's ascent remain scarce though it is known that a film team climbed Cerro Torre via the Ragni Route prior to Lama's free climb.

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Sources: Michael Kennedy (Full disclosure, Michael Kennedy is the father of Hayden Kennedy and Editor-in-Chief of Alpinist.), planetmountain.com, Lacachania.com.ar.



Comments
Emmanuel

David just showed the way up and tant pis for the bolt, they're gone anyway.

2012-03-04 20:59:32
Canadian Bacon

Response to anonymousClimber: I would be driven to chop the bolts for the same reason Kruk and Kennedy did: disgust over the manner in which Maestri went about putting the route up (and also lying about completing the ascent, which is likely the most sacred of climbing taboos). While my personal opinion is that climbing should be done in a way that leaves the rock in its natural, unaltered state (or as close as possible to that ideal), I do believe in the right of the first ascensionist to decide the style in which the route is established, for better or worse. My hypothetical statement was based on the fact that, were I in Kennedy and Kruk's position, I would likely have let my emotions outweigh my ethics, and in so doing would desecrate another climber's route. It was simply a course of action I would have followed, and I am certainly not trying to justify it in any way. I see your point in extending my "logic" to other routes, but my initial statement was only referring to Cerro Torre, and the Compressor Route in particular. It is one of those special cases in the world of climbing that ignites strong passions in a group of people who, in general, have strong passions to begin with (climbers). The ensuing history of Cerro Torre has only served to fan the flames. Even as I type this, I feel an internal conflict. I am glad that the Compressor Route has been chopped, and a stain on the history of our sport has been eradicated. But I know that I'm letting my personal feelings hold sway in this case, something I'm not prone to doing. An objective, dispassionate look at the facts unleashes a flood of 'well, maybes' and the waters get muddier, so to speak. I suppose Kruk and Kennedy's actions were both right and wrong, or neither.

2012-01-25 04:14:00
Enare

This is funny. When it rains it pours in Patagonia!

At least the mountain is still standing right? no one has blown up the compressor, filled in the cracks with cement etc?

The way people have responded to this circus is quite entertaining.

breakinginmyshoes.wordpress.com

2012-01-25 00:53:12
Keese Lane

@ Tom M "En relación a los hechos ocurridos el día 19 de Enero de 2012, por el cual un grupo de 40 personas fue a linchar al escalador Canadiense Jason Kruk" -Rolando Garibotti

The link is now directing to the original Spanish language post from La Cachana. Sorry for any confusion, both their links and ours have been changing as new reports are posted and updated.

2012-01-24 04:01:22
AWizeOwl

Bad parenting? ;) Now somebody should go back up with the same equipment as Maestri and redo it, while filming a historical documentary.

They should have left it alone, or at least talked it over with the community to see if there was a consensus before erasing something unilaterally, that for better or worse had become over the forty years an historical monument and art piece.

2012-01-24 03:16:20
gibell

"Free the compressor"!?? At first I thought this meant he had cut the compressor loose! I gather it is still up there?

2012-01-24 02:11:52
Tom M

To the author:

Where do you get off using the word "lynch?" I think that's really harsh, considering the news source (the hyperlink you give) mentions nothing of the sort. It basically says that a group convened and decried the actions of the climbers. Then, one person went to try to talk to the climbers, but they were taken away by the police.

Using language like that is needlessly inflammatory.

2012-01-24 00:28:58
anonymousClimber

This action is totally unacceptable.

Who are these young clowns to unilaterally decide that a classic, if controversial, route should come down? That route has been bolted longer than they have been alive... almost longer than they JOINTLY have been alive.

Yes, it is doable without the bolts, but why did they chop them? I thought it was a cool ascent until I learned that. SO many old routes are now doable without the original fixed gear... so what! Many people dreamed of doing this classic route, a route with tons of history, and these two just decided that, no, they would take it on themselves to change it forever. Who the F*$k do they think they are, what route will they desecrate next??

Canadian Bacon — Why would you have chopped the bolts? What other routes do you have your sights on because you don't like how the first ascentionists did it? There are some bolt ladders on the Nose, I'm sure that you could hook around them at A4 or so, why don't you go chop those?? That must be just fine to do by this logic!

This is totally absurd.

2012-01-23 21:37:35
EricW

and its too bad two great guys are paying the price

2012-01-23 11:15:40
EricW

the chickens have come home to roost

2012-01-23 11:14:59
Canadian Bacon

For better or for worse, I would've chopped 'em too, given the opportunity (and the skills).

2012-01-23 08:34:20
up2zmtns

Crazy times in Patagonia this year.

2012-01-23 06:49:58
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