Kennedy Kruk Release Statement

Posted on: January 26, 2012


Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk on the summit of Cerro Torre after climbing their 5.11 A2 variation of the Compressor Route, just before removing the bolts from the upper pitches of the Compressor Route. [Photo] Jason Kruk

The following is a Press Release from Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk, regarding their Cerro Torre ascent. - Keese Lane, Alpinist Online Editor

"As a society we have removed other mistakes, like the Berlin Wall. History doesn't stop. History is happening right now. Hopefully the bolts are history someday." - Zach Smith

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If you are lucky enough to catch a glimpse of Cerro Torre on a rare, clear day, you will understand why many consider it the most beautiful and compelling mountain in the world. Messner called it 'a shriek turned to stone'. The contradiction between its great beauty and its intimidating aspects will make the head spin of any enterprising climber wanting to one day try it.

In mid January, 2012, Hayden Kennedy and I completed the defining climb of our collective careers. But, the mountain and our route have been betrayed by the unfortunate controversy that enshrouds it like the clouds.

We agreed to meet in El Chalten, the gateway town to the range, in early December 2011. In the month leading up to our trip, Hayden and I hadn't talked much. He was in Turkey sportclimbing and preoccupied with a Norwegian girl there. I was in Mexico flying paragliders. Despite seven seasons of cumulative experience in the range and a lengthy wish-list, we hadn't talked about any specific objectives other than wanting to 'climb on the Torres' and do it in our favorite style - fast, light, and as free as can be. We knew the best laid plans would likely be scattered by the Patagonian winds. Better to be adaptable and simply go with the flow. We have always been on the same page, climbing wise, since our first time tying in together a couple years ago. That was at the base of Cerro Fitz Roy which we climbed via a Patagonian classic, the Supercanaleta (1600m 6a+ 85 degrees), a route that on the first ascent was a high water mark of climbing style. It was completed in 1965 by Argentine climbers Carlos Comesana and Jose Luis Fonrouge in perfect alpine style over a three day round trip, stats very impressive by even modern standards, infinitely more so considering the equipment of the time. It was also the second-ever ascent of Cerro Fitz Roy.

It wasn't long upon our arrival in El Chalten before the weather looked good enough for an attempt on something. We chose to climb the classic Exocet (500m 6a WI5 MI3), on Aguja Standhardt, the perfect intro route to the specific nuances of Torre climbing. A week or so later we climbed Punta Herron via Spigolo dei Bimbi (350m 6b MI5) as well as the Huber-Schnarf (200m 6b+ MI3), summiting Torre Egger in a long day camp to camp. In this time we also climbed the classic Chiaro di Luna on Aguja St. Exupery and established a new route on Aguja de l'S.

We were certainly fulfilling our plans to 'climb on the Torres', having completed routes on three out of the four. Remaining only was Cerro Torre, a mountain I had tried to climb the year before. Chris Geisler and I had reached a point some 40 meters shy of the top of the headwall. We had attempted the southeast ridge, the line of the Compressor Route, but had avoided using any of Maestri's bolts. When our best guess at the line of weakness up the headwall dead-ended we had two options: retreat, or continue up the bolt line.

We would not summit the Torre that year. Our attempt was soured by the reawakening of the Cerro Torre controversy that Chris and I were now swept up in. Loving the controversy, all the magazines wanted to know my opinion. The hype became too much - recycled garbage. Eventually I was tired of it all, the idea of comparing myself to someone else sickened me. My plan was never to promote my ascent nor defame David Lama.

Jason Kruk [Photo] Hayden Kennedy

Hayden and I would focus our energy on another line on the Torre this season: the north face. The wild face is full of adventure and the unknown. Feeling uber-fit and stoked to the max, we knew we had a shot if the weather continued to cooperate. However, the month of January was uncharacteristically warm in the mountains, and attempting the north face seemed just too dangerous. The most logical line to attempt was now my old friend the Southeast Ridge.

On the morning of January 15th Hayden and I left Niponino basecamp, approached Cerro Torre and climbed the 300m mixed 'approach' to the Col of Patience slowly, conserving as much energy as possible. Here we relaxed in the shade of our tent, and drank and ate as much as possible. With binoculars, we spied discontinuous features splitting the very left of the headwall that would possibly connect the line Geisler and I had attempted with the summit.

We slept through our 11 p.m. alarm, waking at 2 a.m. We pounded coffee, got psyched, and were climbing by 2:45. Joyous, splitter climbing comprises the majority of the lower SE Ridge. We hooted and hollered into the night as we made very quick time in the dark. We reached the Salvaterra-Mabboni variation just before first light, around 5:00am. The integral ridgeline above was attempted as early as 1968 and finally climbed in 1999 by Ermanno Salvaterra and Mauro Mabboni. From here the Compressor Route beelines inexplicably right, across blank rock and hundreds of bolts. Hayden led the beautiful A1 splitter crack above, using a couple knifeblades in between small cams. The climbing on the ridge above is absolutely brilliant - immaculate 5.10 edges in an exposed position on the arete. Short-fixing off a two-bolt anchor, Hayden continued up the arete at top speed while I followed on the jumars as quickly as possible. I reached the belay, an incredible position at an apex above the south face, gasping for breath. Looking right, ice and mixed terrain led through the ice tower features. Grabbing the rack and changing into crampons, we high-fived and I took off, navigating the ice and mixed pitches, short-fixing the rope for Hayden to follow all the way to the base of the WI5 chimney. This long, steep pitch, first climbed by Josh Wharton and Zack Smith, bypasses yet another bolt ladder up a blank wall to its right. The ice was cold, bullet-hard. I ran it out between three ice screws, Hayden followed. We were at the base of the headwall, elated.

Donning rock shoes, Hayden cast off on the steep ground above. The first two pitches were comprised of athletic 5.11- climbing over large, positive flakes. Deviating just right, then left, of the Compressor bolts, Hayden ran it out between solid cams, commenting on the bliss of the quality movement in such an extreme environment. Reaching a mid-way ledge, Hayden free climbed directly left off the belay, finding free-climbable edges where Chris last year, in a weakened state, had resorted to techno-aid. From this point Chris had placed a bolt in a blank section of rock and had climbed right, across a feature that would eventually deadend on us last year. Hayden reached the bolt and lowered to the level of my belay. Running back and forth across the headwall, Hayden stuck an edge at the apex of this King Swing. More edges led down to a small perch on the immediate left edge of the headwall. Cleaning the pitch and lowering out off the bolt, I joined Hayden at this belay stance, a spot so exposed we may as well have been on the moon.

Hayden Kennedy [Photo] Jason Kruk

Above, discontinuous cracks, edges, and ice blobs provided passage up perfect red patina granite. Hayden expertly navigated the complex terrain with a mixture of free and ice climbing. The only aid was in the name of alpine efficiency - stopping to stand in a sling to chop a couple cam placements out of iced-up cracks. After another belay, Hayden, still feeling psyched to lead, lead a brilliant traverse a stones throw from the top of the headwall, following a magic splitter crack. The crack dead-ended and Hayden, arms failing from dehydration, hooked the ultimate moves to the top of the headwall. Hayden started screaming and I knew it was in the bag. I followed the pitch with a massive shit-eating grin. We had held our breath till this point, honestly expecting to be shut down at any moment.

We dropped our gear on the summit snowfield and ran up the final mushroom to the summit. We had just done the first fair-means ascent of the Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre in 13 hours.

There has been a lot of talk over the years about chopping the Compressor bolts. Undoubtably, it is a lot easier to talk about it than to actually do it and deal with the consequences. After a lengthy introspection on the summit, we knew the act needed to be initiated by one party, without consensus. The tribes will always remain too polarized to reach a common ground. Of course at cocktail hour in El Chalten there was much talk of those 'what ifs' of climbing the SE Ridge. Truthfully, during our climb and the days preceding it, Hayden and I talked nothing of removing the bolts.

Fair means does not mean no bolts. Reasonable use of bolts has been a long-accepted practice in this mountain range. Often, steep, blank granite would be folly without the sparing using of this type of protection. We clipped four bolts placed by Salvaterra on his variation - two in a belay and two for protection. At that point on the route, Hayden was short-fixing with a 35 meter loop of slack, surely a death-fall anyways. He could have clearly skipped them, but that's not the point. These bolts were placed in blank granite, by hand, on otherwise un-protectable terrain. Higher we used the bolt placed by Chris on our attempt last year. Five bolts for four hundred seemed like a pretty good trade to us. We also used two of Maestri's original belays on the headwall. These were in spots in close-proximity to other natural anchor options. Believe us, we know how to build gear anchors. The fact that we were planning on leaving these bolts in anyways, meant it was too silly not to use them on the ascent. Our ultimate goal was respect for the mountain. The headwall rappels could have been chopped and replaced by nuts and pitons. However, considering that on a beautiful and popular line there will inevitably be rappel anchors in place, it seemed more logical to leave the established anchors, rather than remove them, and let the anchors slowly degrade into the 5 and 6-piece rappel anchors of tattered cord that are found on other popular routes in the range.

In the end, we removed the bolts on the entire headwall and on one of the pitches below. Our best guess would count around 125. We would have continued chopping below, if not for our friends Victor and Ricardo, dependent on the bolts of the 90-meter bolt traverse to descend themselves.

The question that remains, is why? Maestri's actions were a complete atrocity. His use of bolts and heavy machinery was outrageous, even for the time. The Southeast Ridge was attainable by fair means in the '70s, he stole that climb from the future.

Cerro Torre, a mountain so perfectly steep on all sides, is the postcard for the ideal that is alpinism. There should be no easy way to the top. The fact that there was a glorified via-ferrata to its summit deeply offended a global community of dedicated alpinists. If Cerro Torre was any more accessible, someone would have chopped Maestri's bolts a long time ago, returning the mountain to its former grandeur.

Who committed the act of violence against Cerro Torre? Maestri, by installing the bolts, or us, by removing them?

As long as the hardware remained it was justification for the unreasonable use of bolts by others. We are part of the next generation, the young group of aspiring alpinists. This is a statement we felt other young alpinists needed to hear.

Our real feelings were confirmed by three young Argentine climbers we passed on the Torre Glacier while hiking out of the range. Their eyes lit up as they told us how inspired they were to climb on Cerro Torre now, to train harder, to be better. To rise up to the challenge that has been restored to the mountain. Two days later they would make a rare ascent of Aguja Standhardt, via Festerville. Respect.

A bunch of people climbed the Compressor Route and had fun, but now it's a new era for Cerro Torre. Days after our ascent, young, talented Austrian alpinists, David Lama and Peter Ortner free-climbed their own variation on the Southeast Ridge. This news was greatly inspirational to Hayden and I, and is further proof that the bolts were unnecessary.

It would be hard to claim more authority than Comesana, who, upon hearing the news of our actions responded:

"In my name and the others that resign the dream to climb for first this fantastic mountain I claim for our rights to delete from the walls of Cerro Torre all the remainings - compressor inclusive - of the rape made by Maestri in the '70's and I think that no one - for any reason - can have more rights than ours."

—Jason Kruk, Squamish, BC

—Hayden Kennedy, Carbondale, Colorado

Hayden Kennedy [Photo] Jason Kruk

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Comments
Giorgio Riccardi

here, take a look and learn something called respect and ethic: youtu.be/5tIftD2bQNk

2014-01-20 12:43:30
richardh

This year's Piolet d'Or jury (Stephen Venables, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Katsutaka Yokoyama and Silvo Karo) have thrown their opinion into the debate by giving a "special mention" to Hayden Kennedy, Jason Kruk, David Lama and Peter Ortner for their Cerro Torre climbs - see www.himalayamasala.com/blog/piolets-dor-special-mention-two-clims-cerro-torre

2013-03-20 21:55:35
Panais

A rhetoric question (not an attack) to Colin Haley: if the Compressor route following the Nose standards should have 50 bolts and no more, have many does it have now where they are most needed?

2012-02-22 03:42:06
Luciano

Grazie ragazzi, finalmente qualcuno che ha preso la giusta e saggia decisione di togliere tutta quella spazzatura da una delle più belle montagne del mondo. Finalmente è stata ridata la giusta dignità alla montagna. Non è obbligatorio arrivare in cima ad una vetta, se non si è in grado di farlo con i propri mezzi, le proprie capacità e le proprie paure. Se non si è in grado di salire il Torre, ci sono tante altre montagne più facili a seconda delle capacità di ognuno. Ma salire una via più facile non significa essere inferiori ai grandi alpinisti. Salire una montagna non è una prova di coraggio, una sfida alla natura un modo per mettersi in mostra. Salire una montagna è passione, passione fino alla fine. Ciò che conta è la soddisfazione personale, l'aver raggiunto la cima con le proprie forze e non l'esibire la fotografia di una vetta al bar per stupire gli amici. Quei chiodi rappresentavano una ferita ed una offesa alla natura, alla sua purezza, alla sua bellezza e finalmente, sono stati tolti. Non preocupatevi di chi vi attacca, di chi vi offende, di chi non ha il coraggio di ammettere che quello che avete fatto è giusto, forse perchè non lo ha fatto lui o perchè rendendo facile una montagna ci si guadagna un sacco di soldi. Ci sono anche tante, tantissime persone che anche se mai saliranno quella montagna, sono orgogliosi di voi e di quello che avete fatto. Grazie, per aver ridato dignità al Cerro Torre.

2012-02-15 23:55:59
pillola

il problema vero sta nella mancanza di EDUCAZIONE SOCIALE di questi 2 Bambini assetati di senso di potere come tutti i loro connazionali!!!

2012-02-13 23:26:18
manicamario

Enduring freedom

Vecchia faccenda, questa. I fatti che segnano la storia di paesi come Iraq, Afghanistan, Somalia, Vietnam e Centro America, non sono forse simili a quelli che segnano la via del Compressore al Torre? Vi si leggono le stesse motivazioni. Nei paesi citati le si brandiscono con democrazia da importare, con regole di vita da importare, con cose giuste da fare e cose sbagliate da cancellare, in stile americano. Uno stile al quale ci accodiamo a testa bassa, spesso, anche noi europei. Sulla via del Compressore, lo stile simil imperialista parrebbe lo stesso. Ecco svegliarsi qualcuno la mattina e decidere di cancellare la storia. Una storia che peraltro non è stata presa da esempio. Anzi. L’essere lì è servita proprio per non raccoglierla. «Il Cerro Torre non è di tutti. Il Cerro Torre è argentino», scrive in un blog Marianna Fava, figlia di Cesarino Fava. E gli argentini di El Chalten avevano discusso sulla questione già da tempo, decidendo poi di lasciare il Torre così com’era. Dunque perché intromettersi? Le motivazioni del gesto di questi climber americani (e del coro di sostegno e approvazione che li ha accompagnati, non senza la riprovazione di molti altri loro scalatori connazionali) non sono forse simili? Liberiamoci del male assoluto. A loro non serve il permesso. C’è da chiedersi perché non agiscano così a casa propria. Guantanamo, la pena di morte.... Cose grosse, certo. Cose di Storia. Un paradosso mettere sullo stesso piano Iraq e Torre. Pena di morte e Torre. Ma i promotori di queste vicende sembrano legati dallo stesso filo rosso culturale. Tutti loro sono fermamente convinti del bene fatto. Il male è stato estirpato. Non c’è solo il Cerro Torre. La pulizia della montagna non avviene epurando la storia. Mi verrebbe di arrivare in cima al Torre con l’elicottero, di calarmi in doppia, e di rimettere sulla stessa via i chiodi a pressione profanati. Con qualche migliaia di euro me la caverei. Poi, però, sarebbe necessario l’intervento dei caschi blu per controllare che il Cerro Torre non venisse liberato. Ma dato che per l’intervento dei caschi blu è necessaria una risoluzione dell’Onu, il veto degli americani sarebbe risolutivo anche in questo caso. E, la storia, infinita: metti e togli, togli e metti.

Mario Manica Prima salita parete nord Cerro Piergiorgio Prima salita parete ovest Torre Centrale del Paine Prime invernali Torre Nord e Torre Sud del Paine Via nuova parete est Cerro Catedral Via nuova parete ovest Torre Nord del Paine

2012-02-11 00:49:45
climbersaregods

After all this crazyness and baldface madness quiets down, the natural world is a cleaner place (Cerro Torre isn't an anthropogenic playground) and that is enough.

2012-02-10 20:49:38
Panais

Mr Kelly Cordes makes a good effort to support his compatriots, yet certainly, this is not a matter of US vs the world, nor has criticism sprung only from abroad, or from people who have little to do with climbing.

He tries hard to convince us (for something that has always been widely accepted) that placing all those bolts was wrong, so as to announce that Jason and Hayden did good removing them. Not so much a logical argument.

You have missed the point Mr Cordes. Sure, there is anarchism in climbing, but can you please find and give us an example of another route that was similarly vandalized (destroyed, if your prefer) with the applaud of the climbing community?

Jason and Hayden attempted to present themselves as heroes of liberation against bolts. O Captain, that was too american.

2012-02-10 16:27:01
ebosuna

Es un tema de respeto, ese par de idiotas que se portaron como gringos, no tienen el derecho de tomar determinaciones de ese tipo, Argentina no es afganistan o Irak. It is just simple respect !. they just acted like a pair of stupid gringos.

2012-02-09 04:24:46
alisekera

I agree with kimgraves and the article: www.thecleanestline.com/2012/02/cerro-torre-deviations-from-reason.html#tpe-action-resize-406

Although they should have asked for gone through the proper means, by getting the concent of the general climbing community and the government of Argentina instead of a making a decision on the fly themselves. The basic idea that the bolts did not belong there is a sound one, because they do not, nor excessive amounts of bolts belong anywhere.

Maestri was just as wrong to put them up as some people seem to think these two were for pulling them down. The natural state of the mountain is without bolts, so every effort should be made to keep it as close to that as reason and necessity allows. History is no excuse to defy this fact. Peoples inablilty to climb is no excuse either.

By removing the artifacts of history you are most definetly not erasing history, that is ridiculous.

And yes, they should remove bolts that are not completey and utterly nessasary in other countries as well, Italy and the USA included. And I hope they do. But I also hope there is more discussion and consent about it next time as well.

The people we should be maddest at, are the ones who are putting up unnecessary eyesores for the lazy and inept right now on routes around the world. Not these two. There are natural routes for people of every difficulty/skill level. There is no reason to bring some big-name mountains down to the level of the general masses. They have things to climb, they just are not as well known.

2012-02-09 01:43:59
ztourville

I'm happy to hear about the bolt removal - thanks, Lads! I'm not so concerned about the compressor route, bolts or no, but of the statement made to the climbing community - "Style Matters". It may take a while, but we won't tolerate your shameful actions.

Climbing getting more difficult, instead of easier, is against the grain, but damn - I love the idea!

Chop, Chop.

2012-02-08 08:16:46
kimby

A solution:

KK removed some bolts off an established climb, bolts that were potentially suspect.

Perhaps we thank them for this.

Now, all that's required is the following:

the holes are already there, so it's relatively simple to drill the existing holes out to 3/8", install new expansion bolts, and paint them to match the rock.

And since this episode has shown that climbers cannot regulate themselves, the powers-that-be enact a new-bolt ban, and a ban on removing old bolts.

It's a simple solution that imposes the type of uniform regulation of climber behavior that has been done elsewhere, AND prevents this type of ugliness in the future.

Thanks, KK!

2012-02-05 03:07:27
kimby

"The best argument for a perspective or ethos, as always, however, is action."

If the above was true (although I entirely disagree: actions are NOT arguments), then it must be said that KK's "argument" is poor and bereft of the qualities that would make any argument convincing to me.

Their "argument", decided upon rather impulsively in a scant few minutes atop a mountain peak, reeks of ignorance and poor judgment (I won't go into point-by-points, since most have been adequately addressed), with little concern or understanding of the effects of said "argument".

Unfortunately, I believe KK's "argument" will be responded to with like "arguments", resulting in a slow-boil bolt-war that could certainly bring about the very effects that all climbers would rather not have: increased regulation over climber behavior.

2012-02-05 00:27:16
kimby

"after a lengthy introspection on the summit..."

15 minutes can seem like an eternity when you're an impulsive pup on a mountain.

2012-02-04 23:52:49
A. Frost

This is a great accomplishment, as is Lama's subsequent free climb. Both performances, however, have been marred by their own controversies and the vociferous reactions of "the Community." I find all of the furor surrounding the chopping of the bolts on the Compressor route, though, particularly disorienting and confusing.

Alpinism, as a pursuit, has always been more than a little "elitist and immature" (to quote "Schooner"); a solipsistic endeavor undertaken by youth and the no longer young who still want to be. At the end of a success, you still end up where you started, with no one loving you more and no thing truly created but a certain resonance in the chest.

One of the aspects of alpinism which has always attracted me to the mountains is the sense of anarchy I find there: the understanding that the decisions I make are mine and my partner's alone, as are the consequences of those actions. The mountains have always been a refuge from society and the opinions of "the community." This debate and belated insistence on the (impossible) consensus of a democratic majority is ridiculous and self-inflated.

Yes, this opinion opens the way for more chopping in the mountains and more bolting, too. But I am ok with that. The main issue here is the profound lack of perspective and acceptance of historical trends. Maestri bolted the route, Kennedy and Kruk chopped it. Moving on, we'll look back, I think, and realize that Maestri's impact on alpinism remains, as does the lesson of his behavior on Cerro Torre. For all the achievement of Kennedy and Kruk's climb, I feel this ascent will likely merit but a sentence or two in the evolution of the practice of alpinism.

Kennedy and Kruk's actions were indeed mistaken. But they weren't mistaken in their intent or originating impulse, so much as in their calculation of the consequences. I can't imagine they anticipated the vitriol directed at them now. I hope they continue to find solace in the mountains and climbing and that "the community" gets over itself and recognizes them as the excellent alpinists that they are and gets back to climbing, too.

More than anything, I see the reactions unfolding across the internet, at crags and campfires around the world, and in Chalten as indicative of the tremendous growth of the number of climbers and those who profess to be alpinists. Some of the furor and miscalculations grow out of the commercialization of the alpine experience (see Lama and Red Bull in previous seasons or the tremendous growth of Chalten itself). Another part of the dialogue stems from the increasing regulation and involvement of government entities in the places and ways we climb. Some argue that all of these "shareholders" are in some way necessary to preserve "the resource." I don't know that that's true or the best scenario. My argument would be for the continued tradition of mentorships under older climbers; two men, one older, one younger, making decisions in the mountains and dealing with the consequences.

The best argument for a perspective or ethos, as always, however, is action. Kennedy and Kruk made their statement on the rock, while we sit at the computer and react and impugn. Bravo.

2012-02-04 19:51:36
Panais

Schooner,

I sign your petition. Yet, sponsor companies (somehow like Maestri) exist to raise their shares, and anything else is secondary to them. I would not count on their moral and ethos but on the impact that such criticized actions may have on their sales. This impact, however, is not straight forward to predict. For many companies, all this fuss is still a good advertisement.

2012-02-04 03:14:55
chewtoy

translation: There is something about making a claim that bolts on a mountain debeautify it that borders on religious intent. Your aesthetics are not mine, maybe.

I think none of us really care about the bolts vs no bolts, but the rationalizations for their removal are down right silly.

Remove them, fine. But please don't try to claim you did it for me, for the future, to pretty up the mountain, to right a wrong, to save the Germans behind the wall, feed the poor, cure cancer, etc.

You did it because you wanted to and because you didn't care what others thought.

As my Bubala would say, “If you are going to be a Schmuck, be a proud Schmuck and don’t hide behind your hair.”

2012-02-04 01:44:24
chewtoy

The other day I saw what maybe the most beautiful woman in the world

Aghast I noticed some thug had placed holes and rings into her ears nipples neverthere

I reached for my pliers and removed the junked scarrage

Please please tell the police I did it for you I did it for the next generation

that I am a visionary and someday everyone will agree

2012-02-04 01:27:38
Schooner

I suggest that the organizations that are supporting the two lads with grant money pull those awards immediately and ban them from future monetary rewards. How can organizations that represent many support the actions of these two guys? I certainly do not want to be part of an organization that supports this immature and elitist behavior.

2012-02-04 01:03:39
Rakaposhi7788

Actions can not taken back. Only these guys had the possibility to climb Cerro Torre is the best conditions in the last years ever had. I have climbed the route in horrible conditions and was happy to find some additional bolts to secure. They haven´t had the right to "destroy" this classical route which keeps a lot of history, even they had to ask Cesare Maestri BEFORE!!!! So I agree with Tom Dauer.

2012-02-03 06:57:28
ebosuna

ACTUARON COMO GRINGOS PENDEJOS, PUNTO ! ARGENTINA NO ES AFGANISTAN O IRAK, A SU CASA CABRONES

2012-02-03 03:42:19
PH425

Maestri's response to JPB, translated to English as best I could find...

"I want to remind you that in recent years, I decided not to speak of Cerro Torre. The reasons that led me to this decision are twofold: there is the controversy over those who want to humiliate me and destroy the wonderful history of mountaineering, but basically I know that by repeating the controversy, I throw in gasoline on the fire and I'm complicit in their dirt. Thurs, regarding the "Compressor Route" (I prefer to call the "Maestri-Claus-Alimonta" on the ridge south-east), I can say that I consider it an incredible way that we faced to make even clearer the discomfiture of those who were forced to retreat after being stopped at a few hundred meters from the summit, climbers considered the best the world, unable to go on top and the failure of which naturally meant that I had lied in 1959 when I declared to have made the summit with Toni Egger. the truth I wanted to prove on the southeast edge is: There is no mountain impossible to climb but only climbers unable to do so. in addition, over the years, I am even more convinced that to doubt the word of a climber means to question the entire history of mountaineering since Balmat.

If I could have a "magic wand", I would erase the Cerro Torre in my life."

As JPB noted, very interesting and telling last sentence. Clearly, a man haunted by his past actions...

2012-02-03 01:55:02
Panais

Well said, Tom Dauer.

2012-02-03 01:25:18
Isotomanivalis

Perfect climb. Bad end. You don't go to a museum and smash pieces of art you dislike... an insipid, arrogant and respectless act!

2012-02-02 23:25:51
JPB

For my chronicle , I contacted Maestri as soon as the news were out . I was the first and only one to do it . Here is what Maestri said ( sorry... it is in French . I is translated from the Italian ).

''Je tiens à vous rappeler que, ces dernières années, j'ai décidé de ne plus parler du Cerro Torre. Les raisons qui m'ont conduit à prendre cette décision sont doubles : il y a la controverse soulevée par ceux qui veulent m’humilier et détruire la merveilleuse histoire de l'alpinisme, mais essentiellement je sais qu’en reprenant la polémique, je jette de l'essence sur le feu et je me fais complice de leur sale jeu. En ce qui concerne la "Voie du Compresseur" (que je préfère appeler la «Maestri-Claus-Alimonta" sur l'arête Sud-Est), je peux dire que je considère que c’est une voie incroyable que nous avons affronté pour rendre encore plus évidente la déconfiture de ceux qui ont été forcés de battre en retraite après avoir été stoppés à quelques centaines de mètres du sommet, des grimpeurs considérés comme les meilleurs au monde, incapables d’aller au sommet et dont l’échec signifiait naturellement que j'avais menti en 1959 quand j'ai déclaré à avoir fait le sommet avec Toni Egger. La vérité que je voulais prouver sur l’arête sud-est est la suivante: Il n’y a pas de montagnes impossibles à gravir mais seulement des grimpeurs incapables de le faire. De plus, au fil des ans, je suis encore plus convaincu que mettre en doute la parole d'un grimpeur signifie mettre en doute l'histoire entière de de l’alpinisme depuis Balmat.

Si je pouvais avoir une "baguette magique", je voudrais effacer le Cerro Torre de ma vie.''

This last sentence explain everything in a sense that the Cerro Torre and its first ascent is worth a Greek Tragedy . It has all the pathos and the hubris of a Sophocle play.

2012-02-02 18:52:37
BF

stupid action, fundamentalist mentality. It does not clean history! ... Stupid guys

2012-02-02 15:48:03
Tom Dauer

Why did nobody ask Cesare Maestri? As far as I know, he is 82 years old, struggling illness in his hometown Madonna di Campiglio. But he has a mobile phone.

I always thought it was a silent agreement in between the climbing community to talk with the first ascentionist before changing the character of a climb.

Maestris bolted rampage may be a historical mistake. Anyway, he deserves the same respect that everybody else involved is claiming.

2012-02-01 01:07:00
jicé

We all must respect history of alpinism.

Jason Kruk and Hayden Kennedy are two big ass holes.

jicé-courchevel (France)

2012-01-31 22:59:23
nopants

"Constable Garibotti just sent me an email asking for my support in the chopping of Maestri's bolts. A little late, don't you think?" Topher

garibotti sends emails to people to support the chopping?? hahahahahahahaha

nopantsclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/02/at-after-party.html

2012-01-31 19:07:44
DO

Was that comparison really meant? Hyperbole I guess, I hope, but very ill-advised. The Berlin Wall and some equipment used in a sport are not in any sense similar; the suggestion that they might be, however intentionally exaggerated, is likely to just reinforce the opinion of readers that America is populated by staggeringly introspective, smug, uneducated, childish, self-loving twits.

Also, and perhaps I have missed something, but how does the removal of the bolts really make a difference? If you wanted to climb the mountain without using the bolts, could you not just: NOT USE THE BOLTS? Maybe all climbers are as incapable of overcoming impulse as these two, perhaps if the bolts are there then they can't help but use them? Or is it a matter of trust - if they are there perhaps no one would believe a climber who claimed not to have used them.

2012-01-31 09:21:00
emilymaynard

Very well written statement boys

2012-01-31 08:40:16
topher

Constable Garibotti just sent me an email asking for my support in the chopping of Maestri's bolts. A little late, don't you think?

This is the first time in my 35 year climbing career that I can honestly say I am ashamed to be an alpine climber. Land management legislation will surely follow and, as usual, climbers acting as ethics policemen are to blame.

The irony of this is that the climb was freed a few days later, ensuring Kruk and Kennedy's "defining climb" of their "collective careers" will be the removal of a climb, not the addition of anything. Sure, they climbed a couple hundred feet of new terrain at 5.11 and hanging on some gear - so what - it was free climbed within a week by a true visionary who deserves the real credit for the first "fair means" ascent. Too bad Hayden couldn't follow his father's role and stay on the positive side of the game.

Way to go guys - just when we were about to clean up our rap sheet for the bolt wars of the 80s you had to blow it for another couple of decades. Respect my a$$.

2012-01-31 08:10:14
PH425

Funny you mention it Panais, the powers that be are certainly discussing it...

www.usatoday.com/news/nation/story/2012-01-29/yosemite-limits-half-dome-hikers/52872922/1

2012-01-30 09:01:56
Panais

As concern the vote: would the authorities in Yosemite let any bunch of foreigners vote regarding any issue in the park? So, wherever there is no police to arrest us, we do as we like in the name of our ideals.

2012-01-30 04:56:40
Panais

And to anyone who speaks large, I say: there is no definite border with these practices. Before you propose cleaning your Nose consider removing first the shameful ladder up the Half Dome. Capisce?

2012-01-30 04:36:10
Panais

My sense is that there are quite a few people here who are ambivalent about the removal of the bolts. Speaking for myself, I was kind of pleased that Maestri's trash was removed from the mountain, but at the same time I felt (and I still feel) that the lads should had left this to happen, instead of imposing their mentality and presenting this as a heroic act. It was not their business to remove the bolts. The fact that they felt compelled to do so reduces my esteem for the them because it reveals immaturity and questionable motives. I still give them a good bravo, but solely for their way up.

PS. How did they remove so many bolts? With their ice axes?

2012-01-30 04:27:06
Marc H

Congrats to Kennedy and Kruk for a fine ascent and returning Cerro Torre to it's orignal glory. It's absolutely shameful what Maestri did. He reduced to the mountain to what he was capable of. A 300 pound air compressor? Bolting a ladder up the mountain? Come on... How is this any different than someone chipping holds up the face so that it's within their 5.9 climbing ability? That's not fair means. And all those people who have followed in Maestri's footsteps... you've cheated. You've climbed a frickin ladder. Everyone needs to tighten up, train harder, get better, the mountain is the mountain and you need to meet it on it's terms, not on yours or Maestri's. David Lama did. Kennedy and Kruk did. Those bolts weren't going to be there forever. The history is still there. We all know what Maestri did. Now we know what Kennedy and Kruk did. Have some dignity people and make a respectful ascent!

Chop the Nose? Sure why not? There's only so much rock on this planet people. A trend of cleaning up the great faces of the world is not a bad idea. Let the mountains bring out the best in humanity, not the worst.

Lastly, this has nothing to do with nationalism. It's too bad an Argentinean didn't have enough pride to rid this iconic peak of such a shameful crutch!

I will get better. I will try harder. I will meet the mountain on it's terms, not mine.

2012-01-29 23:57:45
prolettnfeianlaengaah

@ Zach Smith, Kim Graves, Hayden Kennedy, Jason Kruk Hayden and Jason are not old enough to remember the Berlin Wall, but that is no excuse to use so an egotistical comparison. Others on this forum are not so old and should remember the Wall for what it was. To say that the bolts are like the wall is an insult, and shows that the speaker does not understand the ideas they are speaking. People were killed trying to cross the Wall, shot and left to bleed to death. This has nothing to do with a sport-game which is what climbing is. The bolts on Cerro Torre were part of a game, a hobby, the Berlin Wall was a sign of Human Rights Abuse and oppression. The speakers show how little they understand the world outside of the United States if they think to compare the oppression of the GDR to a few hundred pieces of metal. Also the Wall may be down, but it still is memorialized and the scar of the Wall still marks Berlin. Cut the Bolts, leave the Bolts, it does not matter, but do not compare some simpleminded sport to the GDR. One is for fun, one killed and tortured many people.

2012-01-29 20:14:03
Schooner

Inspired by Haydens and Kruks actions, I walked up toa mcDonalds today and removed the electric hand dryer from the wall in the toilet. I left nothing but some scraps of paper and a few wet drips on the floor and my pant thighs. Thank you Hayden and Kruk. I know that you guys live large and represent the world.

2012-01-29 19:02:46
EricW

Hey Jon,

Read this... www.lacachania.com.ar/noticia.php?id_nota=199&id_seccion=1

Apparently it's still not ok.

2012-01-29 08:45:21
Jon Walsh

One more time, Jason and Hayden have done a heroic deed that I'm sure they'll be recognized even more for in time. Respect.

It is not ok to leave obscene amounts of junk in the mountains! That is an old school mentality that is not sustainable.

I was at the emergency meeting - "the vote" in 2007 that many people on this forum and others like to talk about and base their opinions from. It was a joke. There were 40-50 people there, mostly Argentinian non climbers, a few Argentinian climbers that I suspect hadn't traveled much - if at all for the most part, and about ten well traveled North Americans and Europeans, half of which are well known professional climbers. Although the outcome of the vote was about 4:1 in favor of keeping the bolts on the compressor route, amongst the actual participants in the crowd, it was probably about 3:1 in favor of chopping them.

All this after a relatively serious attempt to chop the route, and somewhat violent altercation in town following it. Things were pretty hot. As they are now.

Personally, I'm psyched to have Cerro Torre back on the list of peaks I'd really like to climb, as climbing it will have a meaning again.

2012-01-29 07:51:09
pcarp

Oh, and one thing, are we climbers or riggers? Last time I checked we climbed this stuff for athletic and aesthetic value, not to maximize safety or insure our chances for success.

2012-01-28 06:23:24
pcarp

It's good to remember history and respect that, but in terms of human history and in places where consensus has weight, the bad acts of humanity ARE cleaned up. Was there a majority regarding the local climbing community? Sure, but this group of peaks has significance beyond Chalten. Also, isn't this a protected area for the preservation of habitat. Removing man made eyesores from this arena makes sense to me irrespective of motive or historical "value".

2012-01-28 06:17:37
Panais

PH425: This is not a forum to start a discussion with you. If you want to comment on the article, their great climb and the removal of the bolts please do - I am interested to hear your opinion.

2012-01-28 03:31:16
scotty vincik

I say fucking chop, chop. Cerro Torre doesn't need a via ferratta.

2012-01-28 02:01:42
Duker

Good work boys!!! Looks like you guys are gettin alot of negative feed back for doing a good thing. For some reason everyone thinks that you guys are trying to be heros or something. Being a climber is not about being a hero and I'm sure both you boys know that very well. Good work!!! I can just imagine your huge shit eating grin and you climbed the last pitch to the snowfield!!! Keep it up guys!!

2012-01-28 01:44:29
EricW

I encourage anyone who wishes to submit their dismay with Kruk, Kennedy and Garabotti to write to their sponsors and the AAC/ACC to let them know that you disapprove of the kind of unilateral action they represent and to also let then know that you will not support companies that support these sorts of activities.

Patagonia, Arcteryx, Black Diamond are a few

Eric

2012-01-28 01:30:46
gsg

you guys are fucking punks and need and will have the shit slapped out of you, hopefully by a yank and a canuck. jack offs just another bunch of did u see me tiny ball douches. And I dont believe you climbed It by fairs means your liars there is no way you freed that route.

2012-01-28 00:51:10
ebosuna

SE PORTARON COMO GRINGOS DE MIERDA, CREEN QUE PUEDEN HACER Y DESHACER COMO LES PLAZCA, ARGENTINA DECIDE, NO UN PAR DE IDIOTAS.

2012-01-27 22:47:40
jsmiley

Climbs evolve as climbing always has...if it inspires you, go climb and have a great day...if it angers you, go climb and have a great day

2012-01-27 18:56:32
Urca

WHY IN ARGENTINA AND NOT IN COLORADO OR IN SQUAMISH? why not chopp The Nose bolts? it's with the some imperialistic mentality that US and Canada (and other countries) think they are the owners of the world.

2012-01-27 18:36:29
PH425

" For cleaning up the shit I only say "thanks" :-) "

Oh wait, most people are disagreeing with it?? Well then...

" You simply had no right to remove these pieces of metal because you climbed a free line nearby. However, you did remove them regardless, thinking perhaps that you will be treated as heroes. Wrong thinking dudes! "

Hahaha, get real!

2012-01-27 13:08:01
climbersaregods

"In a (world) of sheep, one brave man man forms a majority" Edward Abbey

Good work youth.

2012-01-27 08:02:10
chewtoy

How do you "rape" a mountain?

Do have a wife, daughter, mother?

Do you read the news?

Do you know what goes on around the world to our sisters?

Can't we have a discussion about the culture of climbing without making grandiose comparisions?

eh the taste of vomit, thnx, thnx for that.

carry on.

2012-01-27 07:04:41
Panais

Words cannot be taken back, actions even more so.

I say so because after I posted my "thanks" for the cleaning, I wanted to remove that comment right away. I tried but I could not find how.

Here are some afterthoughts:

One could wish that Maestri had not gone back to Argentina so that Bonatti might had given it a second try. Certainly, I do not like at all the way this mountain was climbed by Maestri. But as many people wrote here, no one can erase history. You simply had no right to remove these pieces of metal because you climbed a free line nearby. However, you did remove them regardless, thinking perhaps that you will be treated as heroes. Wrong thinking dudes! I am honestly quite sorry that we cannot only congratulate you for your climb.

By the way, I was not aware about the voting on whether to remove the bolts, but I trust you did. Your behavior is a manifestation of the "spreading democracy" paradigm.

2012-01-27 05:49:07
RolyatB

Great job Hayden and Jason on the ascent and descent. This is a great statement that true alpinist have much respect for the environment and mountains. Maestri raped, vandalized, and polluted one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. If you can’t respect the mountains, get out!! Or get chopped.

2012-01-27 05:46:34
Plaidman

Rolando comes off as a total arrogant dickbag in everything that I've read that he's written about this. He should have chopped it himself instead of sending his little errand boys to do it. Lame all around you petty fucks.

2012-01-27 03:08:38
nopants

the berlin wall comparison is ridiculous. they should be ashamed to even rewrite something like that. it's gross. also, they have little or no arguments in favor of the chopping, which does not support their claim of no being rolo's clerks. decided on the summit? my ass... hayden's thinking about climbing way too much to not to have made up his mind before.

2012-01-27 00:44:24
JPB

I read the article ...

if I follow the reasoning , the true first ascentionist of Everest is Messner because his climb was the only natural one ! All the others were agressions to our natural patrimony.

But Rolando is a very good climber but a poor philosopher . Here is what he said in the interview : ''since any replacement bolts will not be historic''

Thus the original bolts were historic and played a part in our collective culture . Ergo, who can justify their removal ???

The Coliseum in Rome saw the Christians being murdered . Does it gives you the right to tear it down ?

And if I go to Italy and decide to chop down a route in the Dolomites , what will be the reactions of the italian climbing community ?

No , I cannot stand preachers of moral rectitude who want to rewrite history because their own gods tell them so .

Ah , yes , let's chop the Salathe Wall ... Hubris , hubris ...

Rolando , stop the Argentinian red , please !

2012-01-27 00:39:16
EricW

"Rolo has a new interview out on climbmagazine.com where he basically pulls everyone's bitch cards at once."

What a Surprise. Now we know where Ian Parnell has been...

2012-01-27 00:25:43
Jug

It's about time that stain was erased from the face of the Earth. The bolt ladders are found in pictures and books though for the ones interested in history (of desecration and lying!). Nowadays most ascents are done along Ragni Route and therefore the removal of the bolt ladder should not be such a huge loss in number of Cerro Torre ascents.

OK, Berlin wall analogy is not the best but how about this. www.ci.yuma.az.us/Images/Dept_PRA/workerCleaningGrafitti.jpg Especially if you imagine the stains on a nicer wall.

Rolo's arguments are well justified and in that way his arguments are worth more than ours'. Rolo's standpoint on the bolt ladder is no secret to anyone. But there is no ground for blaiming Rolo for the chopping.

To EricW: I saw a picture of the bolts somewhere (supertopo?) plus description of the method for their removal. Very little extra gear is needed. But I too have hard time to believe the climbers made a last minute decision to remove the bolts.

2012-01-27 00:20:14
tq

It's interesting seeing all these comments ...

I hope this act doesn’t set the precedent for other famous and historical routes being chopped – but I have no doubt that this will happen more and more, especially with the younger climbers.

They indeed succeeded in making a name for themselves and being the focus of ire for the entire international climbing community.

2012-01-27 00:10:12
epsilon

Rolo has a new interview out on climbmagazine.com where he basically pulls everyone's bitch cards at once.

2012-01-27 00:06:07
EricW

"So you mean rather than waste time arguing about climbing, they actually went climbing? That's probably something more than a few people upset about this should consider doing."

According to you it's not possible to do both?

2012-01-27 00:00:12
JPB

Like I said , if we start ''removing the garbage from the mountain'' , where will it stop ?

Who can say what is garbage and what is History ? The garbage of Pompei is now History . And proof that the route was part of our collective history is that these gonzo gave , as souvenirs , the bolts to climbers when back in El Chalten ... And they planned to do that because they kept the bolts when going down ... so it was premeditated !

I am an atheist but I will not dynamite the 40 years old church at the end of the street .

People were dreaming about this Compressor Route . Dreaming to do it , dreaming because they had done it , dreaming because they had read about the feat . Because it was a feat ... just read how and why it was done ... I wonder if the gonzos could live the ordeal of Maestri even if he did not reach the summit . No , not really ...

The worst sin for the Greeks was Hubris . That is :extreme haughtiness, pride or arrogance. Hubris often indicates a loss of contact with reality and an overestimation of one's own competence or capabilities.

These two wanted to be as the Gods . They wanted to be rememmbered as Maestri is . They wanted their place in history , not by climbing ( Lama is better ) but by destroying . For the Greeks , the punition of Hubris was Nemesis : complete annihilation ....

I am saddened that one of the culprit is a Canadian but stupidity is the same all over , too bad .

Now , who will chop what ? Who will burn what ? who will destroy what in the name of intolerance and political rectitude ? Who will be our next dectators of the thoughts ??

2012-01-26 23:15:01
chewtoy

Two sides:

a) They are vanguards and like Royal Robbins on “The wall of early morning light” and took a move for the future by removing the bolts.

b) They took the gym mentality where if you climb someone elses’s route and don’t use all the tape holds you remove the tape ya didn’t use because you are young, arrogant and disrespectful of others. Pathetic.

Like Robbins these two young’ns will eventually realize there is a grey area. And no one is a white knight.

For now let us enjoy the show and watch them debolt the west face of Leaning Tower. For the only logical way to prove they are not imperalistic debolters is to debolt at home.

Aside: The Berlin wall analogy is embarrassing at best. You removed some pieces of metal from a slice of rock, you did not free 15 million people-please get over your self-importance of youth by living long enough to grow old.

2012-01-26 23:04:12
epsilon

"Their righteous behavior appears to have them in arrears with both the police and local community. Instead of facing these charges, like the men they claimed to be, the superheros split town."

So you mean rather than waste time arguing about climbing, they actually went climbing? That's probably something more than a few people upset about this should consider doing.

2012-01-26 22:36:18
Andre the climber

Hi, kudos for the ascent.

Now, being inspiring for young alpinists for the chopping? You need to grow up first!

2012-01-26 22:04:04
EricW

A few points that need clarification:

-Rolo seems to think that since he is the unofficial Alcalde de El Chalten that his opinion is more valuable than 40 odd other people, or than any opinion contrary to his own. I do, however, see that there are issues raised in regards to due-process in the way the police handled this situation. Why have Jason and Hayden been declared 'persona non-grata" in El Chalten by the Centro Andino? Why has this not been reported Mr. Editor? www.lacachania.com.ar/noticia.php?id_nota=199&id_seccion=1 Very telling.

-In the article from the spanish news service in Chalten (link now removed?) they quote Hayden as saying they had considered beforehand the chopping, whereas Jason says it was a spur of the moment decision on the summit. Which is correct? Let's get our stories straight kids....which leads to the questions...

-What special equipment if any did they bring to remove the bolts? 125 according to Jason.

-If no special equipment was brought than please let us know how you were able to remove so many bolts so efficiently. They must have been very easy to remove.

-Depending on the answers to these questions, "Lengthy Introspection" regardless of the answer, may appear a bit disingenuous. I know that I am personally preoccupied with the descent as opposed to lengthy bouts of philosophy on summits...but that's just me.

-Please elaborate on the methods and equipment used to extract the bolts.

-After their return from Cerro Torre Jason and Hayden were giving away the bolts to people as souveniers (personal communication) This hardly seems like behaviour of individuals that had any sense for how their actions may be received by the community.

All in all, Alcalde Garabotti finally has orchestrated what he wants without having to lift a finger for himself. A masterful performance Rolo, or should I say "Maestri-ful".

I offer an alternative timeline of events:

Jason and Hayden planned to remove the bolts from the beginning with the blessings of Alcalde Garabotti. They brought the necessary equipment to achieve this goal. In the self-congratulatory furor and back-slapping that ensued they handed out the bolts to other climbers like candy. Their righteous behavior appears to have them in arrears with both the police and local community. Instead of facing these charges, like the men they claimed to be, the superheros split town.

I agree with Luis Soto in that people make mistakes and that no one is perfect (except Alcalde Garabotti). It would have been better had the boys addressed the issues with the community head on, instead of through the family magazine.

Eric

2012-01-26 21:54:25
agmorgan

Well done. Your actions demonstrate great respect for the mountain and for the ideals of true alpinism.

2012-01-26 21:35:38
Fox nick kalatzakis

As an alpinist I am really happy about that achievement climb! But as part of the history of that we call alpinism I am too sad about your actions on the decent! Learn not only to climb but respect the history becose it's there!

2012-01-26 21:31:27
kimgraves

For all those whining about "erasing history": I guess you would have left the Lama/Redbull mess on the headwall as an historical artifact, or all the O2 canisters on Everest. Kruk and Kennedy cleaned up a mess. Nothing short of removing litter from the mountain. History is not erased by the removal of artifacts. The removal of the Berlin Wall doesn't erases the history of the cold war. The Berlin Wall was removed because it's time was over. The bolts comprising "The Compressor Route" are removed because their time is over. No one is ever going to forget "The Compressor Route."

2012-01-26 21:30:30
Urca

hey folks, Didn't them know about the democratic (and international)decision took some years earlier to keep the compressor bolts there? why to be so self, self, self? because they are american and canadian? stupid. the police had to come and protect them from the locals (i mean chalten locals, not only argentines) sad! I AM AGAINST TO PLACE BOLTS OR REMOVE THEM FROM OTHER CLIMBERS PREVIOUS ASCENTS. AND YOU?

2012-01-26 21:23:36
ebosuna

Kennedy and Kruk behave like any gringo, Cerro Torre is in Argentina, it is another country in America, they can not make decisions there. Only the Arentinians can decide. Como siempre se portan como pinches gringos.

2012-01-26 21:12:38
gabry1965

2012-01-26 21:12:27
gabry1965

we are waiting iN ITALY FOR THE UNRIVET CASSIN ROUTE AT NORTH OF LAVAREDO AFTER CLIMBING IT FOR FREE..

2012-01-26 21:10:02
JPB

In a few words...

Maybe Maestri was wrong to haul a compressor and leave all this metal ...I wonder who would have the guts to do something like that now .

But he left on the face something more than bolts. He left what would become a part of climbing history and that is owned by all climbers , everywhere.

This was a long time ago. The ''badasses'' were not even born and now , after a fantastic achievement , they decided to rewrite History for all of us .

This is wrong !

What is more horrible than a concentration camp? Well , they are kept and you can visit them because they are part of our collective history and no one would have the idea of bulldozing them .

If I solo a climb , does it gives me the right to chop the bolts and anchors because it ''restaures the challenge''?

Should I burn the refuges because I can sleep in the snow anywhere ?

A mountain is a mountain , that is a piece of rock and there is no mountain better than another one . It is all human judgement , the beauty of it , the purety of it ... I am an atheist , I don't venerate mountains but I sure can appreciate the depth of human history and the necessity to preserve it .

Sadly I can also appreciate the depth of human stupidity ...

I just hope your sponsors will see the light and chop you from their roster .

2012-01-26 20:16:43
epsilon

As Rolo Garibotti has pointed out, the 2007 "democratic" vote was a meaningless sham.

Man, people really get sensitive over some pieces of metal, don't they?

2012-01-26 17:49:58
chalten

Sad. You "american" guys simply don't get what democracy is about. Again, there was a meeting in 2007 where it was decided the bolts stayed. You took them off with not even a warning. People were climbing the route at the moment. This doesn't make you heroes, just people with enough climbing skills to go high enough, but not enough brains to respect other people.

But don't worry, it's maybe not your fault, maybe it's just this crazy mountain. I don't think you could be able to do this same feat on a traditional US climbing route. But i'll look forward to you trying it, though.

Also, regarding the "the stolen climb from the future" cry, man, seriously? Stop whinning and be more resourceful and imaginative. Maybe if it was not done before it simply is that it was not possible before. The more respect for your achievement on the way up, shame on you for your actions on the descent.

2012-01-26 17:10:50
Stefan Jacobsen

Respect for doing the route by fair means, and thanks for cleaning a good part of the bolts. Good point comparing Maestri's bolt ladder with the Berlin wall.

2012-01-26 15:39:38
Emmanuel

All in all, Maestri has left an heritage of controversy, a good publicist! I guess he never planned with that.

Just cheers for the free ascent, this is the way to go and I hope you both will be remembered for that (apparently, David Lama has a better PR agent). I do not agree to the fact you chopped the bolt ladder, probably the nostalgy of the weirdness of old ages of alpinism, but well, it is my opinion and this does affect anything to your fantastic ascent. Keep up doing such alpinism, you are indeed the young generation and you deserve better than a wave of compalints for a few pieces of old metal.

2012-01-26 12:52:12
Esteban Breeze

Well, if anybody has the balls to go reset the hardware, get on it. Otherwise pipe down and show some respect for a couple of bold young climbers who have challenged everybody else to keep up. Proud of you guys!

2012-01-26 10:54:16
epsilon

"Boo hoo they chopped some bolts without asking me personally for permission!"

That's what a lot of the posts on here sound like.

2012-01-26 09:47:35
chewtoy

One man alone can be pretty dumb sometimes, but for real bona fide stupidity, there ain't nothing can beat teamwork.

-Edward Abbey

2012-01-26 07:15:29
Madsenita

I think they SHOULD HAVE asked us before doing anything.... good climb, SHITE ENDING...

It's not good for being remembered as the guys who did a good enough climb but the fuck#d it up on their way down +-/

2012-01-26 03:59:04
Panais

Similarly, Lynn Hill could clean up the Nose after she climbed it free, yet that way she would only reduce what she had just done. Girls are smarter.

2012-01-26 03:20:24
Panais

Climbing as you did was a hard enough statement on itself.

For cleaning up the shit I only say "thanks" :-)

2012-01-26 03:00:56
andy kirkpatrick

Well done Jason and Hayden!

Now buy a ticket to the valley and sort out thoes bolt ladders on the Nose!!!!!!

2012-01-26 02:41:36
woodycreeker

hmm... while i can sympathize with their sentiment on removing the bolts b/c they were vastly over-placed. their spur of the moment decision smells of arrogance and selfishness. it is not the right of one team, no matter how accomplished, to make a decision like that. two cents.

2012-01-26 02:15:37
FreeClimb

It was not your route. You had no right to remove bolts from this route. You are vandals with no respect to history and others. Your action was selfish and ignorant.

2012-01-26 02:10:13
epsilon

wintermute: sure they do. Is removing bolts against the law?

2012-01-26 01:45:04
wintermute

You have absolutely no right to remove these bolts.

2012-01-26 01:39:05
epsilon

Awesome job guys, great account of your climb and a great statement!

Now go send on North Twin!

2012-01-26 00:36:10
Jeff Shapiro

Respect indeed. Well said and well done representing the respect such places deserve. Thanks guys

2012-01-25 23:55:00
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