Also in This Area
Also in This Style
Lama's Bolts Cut: It Begins Again
Posted on: November 16, 2010
News Flash: The following news flash is a preliminary report posted as a service to our readers. Alpinist has not confirmed the veracity of its contents but will post a story in detail when more information becomes available.-Ed.
In a recent post on Supertopo.com Rolo Garibotti reports cutting seventeen of the bolts placed by David Lama's film crew on Cerro Torre. Last winter, professional climber David Lama set out to free Maestri's Compressor Route, and make a film of the expedition. Boasting of his plan to climb the route in a purer style, Lama began his "project" and his film crew began drilling. When news of the team's actions were published online it set off a firestorm of criticism and a boycott of RedBull, the team's sponsor. Garibotti reported leaving at least three bolts (after cutting seventeen) above the Col of Patience and that another twenty, including retro-bolted anchors, exist below the Col. (In a statement Lama reported that his team had left twelve bolts above the Col and fourteen below.) Garibotti also states that local guides pulled down the last of five haul bags left by the team. (Lama reported leaving only the bolts and a single bag.) Garibotti writes that the bolts above the Col were all "very much on route" and that on the rappel "next to each of [the new] bolted anchors there are old rap stations on natural gear." His post on supertopo.com can be read here.
Here at Alpinist, our small editorial staff works hard to create in-depth stories that are thoughtfully edited, thoroughly fact-checked and beautifully designed. Please consider supporting our efforts by subscribing.