World’s Worst Climbing Desecration?

Posted on: March 7, 2008

Bolts are bad. Chipping is horrendous. What could be worse? Well—here's an easy answer—really, really stupid people.

These pictures are from a thread on


Ethics are one thing, but I can’t even conceive of who might think gluing plastic onto already climbable rock is OK (especially since someone there in Provo says it would probably be 5.10 or 5.11). Speaking of "OK," it looks like the jackass spelled that word with those alphabet holds just to get my skin itching and my blood boiling.

If anyone can think of a worse climbing desecration, I'd love to hear it.

Here at Alpinist, our small editorial staff works hard to create in-depth stories that are thoughtfully edited, thoroughly fact-checked and beautifully designed. Please consider supporting our efforts by subscribing.


Thanks for the tips guys. I will get a heat gun from work and try it out first.

P.S. Please remember to donate to the ASCA.

2008-03-28 17:42:46

monkey , bistromath

Yes, good point heat is also very effective, caution in that the fumes are ultra nasty. However you decide to clean it up, good on you for doing it, thanks.

2008-03-28 10:51:54


mild heat such as from a hair dryer will soften almost all epoxies enough to peel them from the rock. get a heat gun and a generator, or just a propane torch and a gentle touch, and it should peel right off.

2008-03-28 02:40:31

Thanks Ivan I will try it out on the moab boulder. I just got permission to do the clean up. It might take a couple of weeks because of work But I will get to it as soon as possible.

2008-03-27 18:58:42

I appreciate the effort that climbers are making to clean up the mess. I may have a suggestion as to dealing with the adhesive, I have used Acetic Acid(table vinegar) as a solvent on epoxy with good success, it will soften it and break down the bond which may save the time and trouble of hauling a grinder along. It should make for a clean removal and not further damage the rock.


2008-03-27 18:48:34

Thank you for removing those monstrosities! One problem, though, is that we don't know who did it in the first place..... Whoever that is, they need to be talked to in a diplomatic way (not necessarily violently) so that this doesn't happen again.

I'm not even a Utah local, and this pisses me off. I think chipping or drilling holds is perhaps worse due to the permanence.

2008-03-09 19:55:54

The plastic holds in provo canyon got cleaned up yesterday by mike white and the ones in moab are next on the list.

This kind of thing will not be tolerated as long as I can swing a hammer!!!

2008-03-09 13:08:45
Post a Comment

Login with your username and password below.
New User? Here's what to do.

Forgot your username or password?