HUMAR SOLOS ANNAPURNA'S SOUTH FACE

Posted on: November 5, 2007


Alpinist has received confirmation that Tomaz Humar has summited Annapurna (8091m), crowning a four-day solo mission on its 3000-meter south face. He reached the top on October 28. [It is still being confirmed whether he reached the main summit or the south summit. —Ed.]

Humar's exact line of ascension is unconfirmed. [Alpinist first reported that Humar climbed the western side of the south face, in the vicinity of the unprecedented 1970 British expedition; however, other sources have reported conflicting corroberation. A NewsWire update is forthcoming. —Ed.] The face remains "a testing ground for the most ambitious Himalayan climbers"; it was completed first by legends Chris Bonington, Dougal Haston and Don Whillans—"after many weeks' effort by a team of eight climbers, supported by high-altitude Sherpas, supplying six camps along a continuous line of fixed rope," states Himalaya Alpine-Style. Needless to say, Humar has applied a consummate, contemporary approach to one of last generation's greatest challenges.

Earlier this year, Ueli Steck made a similar solo attempt on Annapurna's south face. Three-hundred meters up, rockfall tossed Steck from the wall; incredibly, he survived the 1000-foot fall (see the May 29, 2007 NewsWire).

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Humar is known for his impressive first ascents and solo attempts on some of the world's most severe Himalayan faces—particularly his 2005 attempt on a new route up Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face, where bad weather trapped him on a small ledge at ca. 6000 meters for six days. Eventually he was rescued by helicopter after poor weather thwarted numerous attempts to reach him.

Alpinist.com will be posting a more comprehensive report when more information becomes available.

Sources: Urban Golob, Himalaya Alpine-Style and news.bbc.co.uk

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