Posted on: November 5, 2007

Alpinist has received confirmation that Tomaz Humar has summited Annapurna (8091m), crowning a four-day solo mission on its 3000-meter south face. He reached the top on October 28. [It is still being confirmed whether he reached the main summit or the south summit. —Ed.]

Humar's exact line of ascension is unconfirmed. [Alpinist first reported that Humar climbed the western side of the south face, in the vicinity of the unprecedented 1970 British expedition; however, other sources have reported conflicting corroberation. A NewsWire update is forthcoming. —Ed.] The face remains "a testing ground for the most ambitious Himalayan climbers"; it was completed first by legends Chris Bonington, Dougal Haston and Don Whillans—"after many weeks' effort by a team of eight climbers, supported by high-altitude Sherpas, supplying six camps along a continuous line of fixed rope," states Himalaya Alpine-Style. Needless to say, Humar has applied a consummate, contemporary approach to one of last generation's greatest challenges.

Earlier this year, Ueli Steck made a similar solo attempt on Annapurna's south face. Three-hundred meters up, rockfall tossed Steck from the wall; incredibly, he survived the 1000-foot fall (see the May 29, 2007 NewsWire).


Humar is known for his impressive first ascents and solo attempts on some of the world's most severe Himalayan faces—particularly his 2005 attempt on a new route up Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face, where bad weather trapped him on a small ledge at ca. 6000 meters for six days. Eventually he was rescued by helicopter after poor weather thwarted numerous attempts to reach him. will be posting a more comprehensive report when more information becomes available.

Sources: Urban Golob, Himalaya Alpine-Style and

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Should you respect him or not? Well, that's easy - whether climbs hard or not anybody who puts himslf/herself out there deserves respect.

Then if you are to look at what this guy has climbed, well his CV is five star. You may like or not his attitude, his PR or his hairstyle but there is no doubt that he's a tough and competent alpinist.

Lafaille wasn't less media aware nor most of the leading lights of today. Sponsorship is in - humility is out.

The fact that he got plucked off Rupal was conveniently played by House (among others) to add extra glamour to their ascent, when that ascent was just a feat regardless. Would have been the sport less bastard with Humar dead? I guess the sport would be less of a bitch without prizes for the "best alpinist" of the year and without claims of the sort that "only 50 people in the world understand"... That's humility for you....

You may like Humar or not! You may like Prezelj or not! you may like House or not! You may like Twight or not! You may like Lafaille or not!

BUT Respect? That goes for all!!!! And hats off for pulling off the ascents they do/did. My 2 cents. C

PS - exercises in keeping low profile and climbing hard? Have a look at Glowacz.

2007-11-12 17:29:00

Hey man,

I've heard different attitudes about this guy, including Prezelj's comment about him being a pop star, and some other stuff about him bastardizing the sport after his incident on Rupal face. As a 23 year old alpinist aspirant, should I respect him or not? It seems similar to the stuff that went around about Herzog's 'tude towards mountaineering: a Prima Donna in a sport of humility. Sorry if I'm off.

2007-11-08 14:57:03
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