HARD ALPINE ROCK ROUTES FREE CLIMBED

Posted on: November 20, 2007


With partner Vasek Satava, Janak made the second free ascent of Voie Petit (V 5.13c, 450m) on the east face of Grand Capucin (3838m). The route has only seen a handful of repeats since its establishment in 1997 by Arnaud Petit and Stefanie Bodet. [Photo] Courtesty of Rob Jarvis

Czech Dusan "Stoupa" Janak climbed two difficult free routes in the Alps and the Slovakian High Tatras this autumn.

With partner Vaskek Satava, Janak made the second free ascent of Voie Petit (V 5.13c, 450m) on the east face of Grand Capucin (3838m). The route has only seen a handful of repeats since its establishment in 1997 by Arnaud Petit and Stefanie Bodet. Alexander Huber was the first to completely free the route—the first ascent party made all of the moves, but were unable to link them without rests—as well as climb the route free in day, which he accomplished in July of 2005. Janak's free ascent this August makes what is likely the only free ascent since Huber's.

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September saw Janak and his girlfriend Monika traveling to the south east face of Jastrabia Veza in the Slovakian High Tatras to climb Jet Stream. The route was established in 2000 by Martin Heuger and Ivan Stefansky at A3+. Janak and partner Ricardo Jurecka completed the first repeat of the route on aid. In 2005, Janak attempted the route again with Jan Kreisinger, completing all the moves, but finding themselves unable to climb the route free in its entirety.

September 24, Janak and Monika climbed Jet Stream all free in one push, giving it a grade of 8a+/b. Janak, in an interview with Climbandmore.com said, "Well, Jet Stream is one of these routes, where the number is quite an important indicator of its value. It is only 150 m high. The value there is a question of poor protection connected with hard moves."

He continued, saying, " It is comparable to Beat Kammerlander's famous New Age in Ratikon. [It was the] first 8a+ in Alps [but] is only 120 m high. Jet Strem is A3+ when aid climbing. I did [the] first aid repetition with Ricardo Jurecka some years ago. I have thought about free climbing it since then."

The route is currently the hardest in the High Tatras. It is equipped with three bolts, the rest of the route is protected by birdbeaks, copperheads and other small pieces.

Sources: Dusan Janak, www.climbandmore.com, tilak.cz

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