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Inspirations, Part II: High Alaska
Jonny Copp in the East Fork of the Kahlitna Glacier, approaching what would become Going Monk (4,300 feet AI6 M6), on Mt. Andrews (13,790 feet). [Photo] Kelly Cordes
One of the greatest articles I've ever read is Jack Tackle's "The Accidental Mentor," in the Voices from the Summit anthology. It's an awesome story about an insanely desperate situation, camaraderie, trust, inspiration and the bond of good partnerships.
At one point in the story Jack writes of an evening in Talkeetna, when he finally met Bradford Washburn. Jack was nervous, as meeting one's heroes can be dangerous: "My lessons with other 'heroes' stuck vividly in my mind. In their cases, the book was definitely better than the movie." Not so when he met Brad, and they talked until 5 a.m. A few hours earlier, Jack, feeling bad about taking up Brad's time, said he should let Brad get to bed. "I can always go to bed. I can't always talk to you," Brad replied. I'll never forget that line.
Kelly Cordes on a failed attempt at the French Route on Mt. Hunter. [Photo] Scott DeCapio
Jack wrote of the impact Mugs Stump (from an earlier part of the story) and Brad Washburn had on him: "I am sure they had little or no idea of what influence they had on my life, especially at that time."
I first met Jack in Missoula, where he gave a slideshow. I'd been climbing for only a year or so, and I watched in awe, taken not only by his accomplishments, but by his overall demeanor and humility. After the show, I really wanted to talk to him, but I was afraid—after all, he's Jack Tackle, and who am I? Finally I summoned the nerve. He made me feel so big, genuinely asking about my life and my climbing ambitions. Jack Tackle! These days Jack and I are good friends. He still inspires me.
When I first poured over the stories in High Alaska and the AAJ, it was just the climbing that made me want to be like those guys. Over time, perhaps I've matured a bit, and I feel like I've grown into my own person. But, at least when it comes to people like Jack Tackle, yeah, I still want to be like those guys.
— Kelly Cordes, Estes Park, CO