DMM Revolution Ice Screws: The Next Go-To Screw?

Weight: 116-165 grams, depending on length

DMM claims they put a lot of research into these new screws, and it showed the first time I placed one. It quickly bit into the ice and turned easily, with little friction, but then, panic! There was no jiffyquickwindything to blaze in the screws. I was hesitant even to put these on my harness because of this missing feature because I was used to screws with some sort of quicktwist. However, I'm glad I racked up with the Revolutions, as DMM made up for this oversight by designing an otherwise brilliant screw.

They come in four sizes: 10, 13, 17 and 22 centimeters, with color-coded hangers. The hangers are big, round and smooth, which makes it a cinch to start the screws and also makes them glove friendly. The tooth angle and design made these the easiest to start of any screw I have ever tried, but when I had snow on my gloves or when the ice was too dense, I was unable to turn the hanger and get the screws in with just my palm. The larger hangers also had big enough holes that I could clip up to three carabiners or two lockers, or I could thread my rope through to rap off. Overall, I found the hangers big but not bulky—they racked nicely with their own kind and with other screws.

The tube itself seems meticulously designed, with precision-ground, nickel-plated teeth and the inside honed to a mirror finish for minimal friction. The screws are also one of the lightest models on the market. Despite not having a quickspin, I would still take these screws for anchors, v-threads and placing on lead when at a small stance.

DMM has promised that a model with winder will be available next winter. Then it just might be the screw to go to for all circumstances.

Pros: Outstanding design; incredible "bite" and easy to start; lightweight; glove friendly.

Cons: No winder (yet).

Rating:

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