The Alpinist Mountain Standards reviews apply Alpinist's tradition of excellence and authenticity to gear reviews by providing unbiased, candid feedback and anecdotal commentary to equipment tested (hard) in the field. Our panel is comprised of climbers who use the gear every day as part of their work and play. Only the gear they would actually buy themselves, at retail price, qualifies for the Alpinist Mountain Standards award. The five-star rating system is as follows:
One Star = Piece of junk.
Two Stars = Has one or more significant flaws, with some redeeming qualities.
Three Stars = Average. This solid piece of gear is middle-of-the-road on the current market.
Four Stars = Better than most comparable gear on the market. It has one or two drawbacks, but still 90% positive.
Five Stars = Is there such thing as perfection? An Alpinist Mountain Standards award-winner.
The rest of the MS Team
La Sportiva Trango S EVO GTX
Posted on: August 8, 2005
The Trango S EVO GTX is just as much a boot as it is a mouthful to say. It is one of the most versatile and comfortable three-season mountaineering boots ever. It is wide enough for our fat American feet and the sole is moderately stiff which allows it to still be flexible enough for many miles of happy hiking. Your feet stay dry compliments to the Gore-Tex inner sock and it is new-matic crampon compatible, so you get great performance on ice as well as rock. In addition, the beefed up "climbing zone" on the out-sole aids when edging small holds. Lucky for the ladies, the Trango is available in women's specific sizes too. This boot has been indispensable in the Tetons this spring as snow and ice lingered up high. All of these features come together at a weight shaving 3lbs 2oz and a nice flashy package.