BUGABOO SPIRE

Posted on: December 1, 2002

Alex McAfee

Encountering insanely good weather in early August, I was able to solo a new route on the 1,600-foot east face of Bugaboo Spire that I had begun the year before. Starting below the left side of Balcony Ledge, Symposium (VI 5.8 A2+) tackles a diagonaling crack system next to the black water streaks low on the face. It is just to the right, and eventually joins, the Cooper-Gran, before topping out on the North Summit.

This year, after three days of hiking loads and three days of fixing to just below my previous high point, I blasted off with nine days' supplies, two haulbags, and an expedition portaledge. Four days later I was on top dumping out gallons of extra water and stuffing down all the Chef Boyardee I could eat. Getting down proved to be the most difficult challenge of the route. Climbing unroped with a haulbag across the summit ridge was a true ballbuster. The climbing on the route itself wasn't too bad, though. Pitch three--beaking and blading with ledgefall potential from thirty feet--was the technical crux, but the true difficulty was the constant rockfall from all sides. Ah, the joy of sitting alone in a portaledge listening to the bombs screaming past and trying to doze off. At least it's better than counting sheep.

-- Alex McAfee, USA