Alpinist 39

A Season in Patagonia Part II

Posted on: July 11, 2012


Every year, the golden spires of Argentina's Los Glaciares National Park lure alpinists into sagas of storm-lashed suffering and existential angst. A decade ago, our inaugural Alpinist 0 presented some of their strongest voices in "A Season in Patagonia." This year, a younger generation of climbers (several under the age of twenty-five) took advantage of good weather to revisit old tales and pursue new dreams. Herein, therefore, a sequel: Scott Bennett and Cheyne Lempe romp up an 1900-meter enchainment between Aguja Mermoz and Fitz Roy (Page 40). Max Odell finds a rime-ice wonderland on the seven summits of the Mushroom Traverse (Page 46). Forty-two years after Cesare Maestri bolted the Compressor Route of Cerro Torre, Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk complete the first "fair means" ascent (Page 49). Luca Signorelli, Rolando Garibotti, Ricardo Company, Adriana Estol, Carlos Comesana, Jorge Ackermann, Luciano Fiorenza, Jose Bonacalza, Matias Villavicencio and Sebastian de la Cruz debate the young men's decision to chop the bolts (Page 54). David Lama overcomes his own controversies on the way to the first free ascent of the Southeast Ridge (Page 65). And in memory of Bjorn- Eivind Artun, we present his draft of a prose poem about the first ascent of Torre Egger's Venas Azules (Page 71), written shortly before his death.

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