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NEW-SCHOOL DOLOMITES LINE GOES FREE
Posted on: August 14, 2007
Donnafugata (8a or 5.13b, 23 pitches, 750m), on the south face of Torre Trieste (2458m), Belluno, Civetta, Dolomites, Italy. Mauro “Bubu” Bole and Gabriele Gorobey made the first free ascent of the route on August 4, opening a number of difficult pitches—5.12b and harder—that Christoph Hainz and Roger Schali aided through three years ago on the first ascent. [Photo] Courtesty of planetmountain.com and the Mauro "Bubu" Bole collection
On August 4, Mauro "Bubu" Bole and Gabriele Gorobey completed the first free ascent of Donnafugata (7a A2 or 8a [5.13b] free, 23 pitches, 750m) on Torre Trieste (2458m) in Belluno, Civetta, Dolomites, Italy. At the southern limit of the Civetta—known as the "Wall of Walls," due to its enormous width—lies Torre Trieste, whose imposing size has resulted in the common appellation of "Tower of Towers." Donnafugata, established three years ago by Christoph Hainz and Roger Schali, fires up the prominent bastion on the tower's south face.
Bole worked the route for four days in early July with Ines Papert. However, Papert had limited time on the route and was pulled away by other engagements before she and Bole were able to free the line. Gorobey stepped in to join Bole for the next attempt. After Bole's intense rehearsal the month before, the two freed the route, on their first try together, in a single thirteen-and-a-half hour push.
The line was first climbed with numerous points of aid by Hainz (Italy) and Schali (Switzerland) on September 8, 2004, after eight days of work. Afterwards Hainz commented that the route would have been "impossible" without the use of bolts, which (along with pegs) protect the majority of the route. "Just a few camming devices are needed for the first four pitches," Bole said, "as is that sensibility to climb up freeable rock, which comes about after years of experience."
Bole continued: "you also need a capable partner (like I had) and stamina and motivation to climb it all in one day." Hainz has made a number of other first ascents and is best known for his 2003, record-breaking speed ascent of the Eigernordwand. His four hour, forty minute ascent of that face held the record for four years until Ueli Steck bested it in February. Bole is similarly accomplished, having completed second ascents of difficult lines, including two Huber testpieces: End of Silence (8b+) and Bellavista (8c).
The free ascent of Donnafugata is Bole and Gorobey's first notable climb on the same rope. "Donnafugata is a great line up an even [greater] face, which is even greater than it seems... the belays are safe and perfect for a quick retreat—[to get on the line is] a sign of maturity!"
Bole on the first free ascent of Donnafugata (8a or 5.13b, 23 pitches, 750m). Having worked the route for four days with Ines Papert in July, Bole and Gorobey freed the route, on their first try together, in a single thirteen-and-a-half hour push. [Photo] Courtesty of planetmountain.com and the Mauro "Bubu" Bole collection