Posted on: December 26, 2006

Oriol Anglada tackles one of the offwidths on his new route, Via Lactea (III 5.12c, seven pitches, Anglada-Anglada, 2006) on the Penon Blanca, Durango state, Mexico. [Photo] Oriol Anglada collection

The Catalan couple, Marisol and Oriol Anglada, have recently added a ninth route to the beautiful ca. 350-meter southwest face of Penon Blanca in Mexico. The 1948-meter Penon, which lies close to the town of Yerbanis in the semi desert of Durango state, is one of the country's most important rock climbing venues, featuring a continuous wall of fine golden granite that ranks amongst the highest in Mexico. Initial attempts were made on the face during the 1970s, largely spearheaded by Sergio Fitch, but success was hard won and it was only after six visits that the wall was finally climbed—by Eduardo Mosqueda via a route toward the right side. More recent additions, which have concentrated on the central and steepest section of the face, have resulted in Lluvia de Estrellas (5.12b A1, five pitches: Carlos Garcia-Emiliano Villanuava, 2001), Irritilas (5.11a, seven pitches, Carlos Garcia-Jorge Colin, 2000), Viaje a Aztlan (5.10a A?, Sergio Fitch and friends, date unknown) and Mi Flaquita (5.10a A?, climbers and date unknown). However, the impressive, smooth, middle section of the central wall, between Lluvia de Estrellas and Irritilas, remained virgin until the Angladas' visit.

The Angladas spent three days, from November 14-16, equipping and then red pointing this middle section of the face to create the seven-pitch Via Lactea (5.12c or 5.12a C2). It was a wonderful route comprising thin face climbing, finger to offwidth cracks and a chimney. As with all other modern routes here, the climb was bolted, though commendably the pair chose to hand drill (37 bolts including belays). However, two sets of Friends plus a Camalot 4 and some TCUs are necessary on the route. Oh, and take along plenty of water.

The central section of the ca. 350-meter southwest face of Peņon Blanca (1948m), Durango state, Mexico, showing the topo of new route Via Lactea (III 5.12c, seven pitches, Anglada-Anglada, 2006). [Photo] Oriol Anglada collection

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Jimmy Carse

Oriol, I didnt lead the off width pitch. It was the only pitch I did not lead .. I cant let that one go sorry mate, my personal ethics lie deeper than that

2011-02-16 14:17:50
Jimmy Carse

Oriol, my apologies on MY mistake. Honestly, from the topo it looks like the same line, and the pic of the offwidth is def our original line. There were no anchors up there? There we several off width options and you could have easily gone an alternate route.

Good job on the new route. Im glad you had experienced the magic of Cerro Blanco.

2011-02-16 04:20:01

Hello Jimmy. I was looking at the web and saw the article of Alpinist about the route we opened in Cerro Blanco,Mexico. I am Oriol Anglada by tha way. I read in the comments below and youy said that you climbed that route before. Fuck the hell you are the one who bolted the amazing diehdral and offwidth in the upper part! That was really bad. It was completely protectable. We took some bolts from that pitch there were to many. You said you climbed the routres we climbed! Bloody hell you didn't! Don't talk before beeing sure of the itinerary.We saw a rope hanging on the lower part of the wall and it was left from where we started. All taht we climbed had no traces of beeing climbed before, no way. I'm sure you didn't climb the vertical faces we climbed with no pro... it was unprotectable in many parts. We took a thin open crack that we cleaned of mose and herbs. I'm sure you didn't climbed theer too.. There was no anchors and not any bolt until we reached the big ledge below the black dihedral. It's bullshit to read mistaken information whre people can get confused for your unacurated description of the route you probably climbed. Just go there and climb Via Lactea. I bet you never climbed that think before. If you put many bolts on a perfect diehdral then how you climbed the smooth sections of the route. I can't understand, just only if you are Dean potter or something. Ciao Ciao

2010-10-05 04:51:59
Jimmy Carse

This is inspiring me to produce another documentary, much shorter though, about how climbers are divided amongst ego maniacs and service to other personalities. Some are all about spraying to boost their ego, and some work and pay out of their pocket to promote the spirit of climbing and the esoteric knowledge that some of us have learned about nature, rocks, crystals, and...elevation ( closer to sun, duh ).Then there are those who lie usually for monetary gain or simple convenience. I have about 20 year of observance (pre- cliffhanger ok?)of the evolution of climbing and its pretty sad. Thats why i prefer to be on the wall..away from all of you! Love it, love life.Truth is omni-present, tap in.

Lindsay please contact me :)

2010-05-15 23:24:44
Jimmy Carse


Quini and Chava did this route with no bolts except for the off width up high ( pictured above) that Quini bolted, only because it was dark and headlamps were dim. We climbed the entire route in an 18 hour push. I hooked move the 12c slab move down low and on sighted every pitch traditional style til the off width which Quini led, whilst i smoked a joing watching the sunset on this huge ledge 2 pitches from the top. I then onsighted the rest in the dark. We summited at 4 am. We graded it 11a/ a1. We rapped down on our rap stations thAT we bolted and had our rope stuck on the last rappel, we decide to leave it because we had run out of water and were dehydrated. So how and the hell does someone claim a first acent of a route with bolted anchors and a fixed rope hanging on it?? Even worse they bolted a route that i had onsighted traditonally years before. Im disgusted.


I did the route LLuvia de Estrellas with Carlos Garcia. We had a falling out on the wall , I guess that negates my leads on the ascent? wtf . Ask Emiliano if he was there. I know him and I know he wouldnt lie..

All good because Roberto Nahle gave me cash and bolts to develop La Presa de Zarco an hour away :) which was awesome! Oh yeah, Nahle loaned Cici (spain) ad Carlos a truck to do there FA on El Gigante in Basaseachi , Carlos returned the favor by ragging out the truck and left it in the mountains without a call or anything to anyone. The spirit of climbing!

Truth and what is published are 2 different things.

2010-05-15 22:26:22
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