Kevin Jorgeson on Pitch 1 of Fantasia, Lover's Leap, Sierra Nevada, California. Royal Robbins established the route in 1973, with Ken Wilson belaying. Wilson, the founder and editor of Mountain Magazine, regularly preached a fierce set of ethics from the pulpit of his magazine. Conscious of Wilson's strict standards, Robbins placed no bolts on the climb, and went so far as to set the route's one piton by hand at a belay, only to be chastised by Wilson for skimping on protection. The route commands respect even now: Jorgeson, who climbs 5.14 sport, encountered a nervy moment running it out above a tied-off knob, particularly when the sling fell off. [Photo] Jerry Dodrill
Fantasia (II 5.9R)
Posted on: October 1, 2006
When the founder of a British climbing magazine came to visit, Royal Robbins took him first of the obvious Yosemite classics, then to a more esoteric destination-and a new route that surpassed even the Brit's taste for adventure and strict ethics.