Posted on: March 1, 2006
Canadians Louis-Philippe Menard and Maxime Turgeon ("Spice Factory"), who both grew up in the cold Quebec winters, met with ice axes in hand. Their home province lacks neither remote lands nor great climbing, but rather big mountains, a shortcoming that inspired their first trip to the Greater Ranges. Devoted to mixed climbing, they adhere to traditional style and ethics. While literature is far from their common engineering background, the experience of writing "Spice Factory" proved compelling: it may have blunted their tools, but they like to believe it sharpened their minds.
Tommy Caldwell ("A Long Time Coming") started climbing at age three in Estes Park, Colorado, with his mountain-guide father, Mike. It's not surprising that he gained a love for the mountains early on; by the time he turned ten, they'd already traveled to places like Yosemite, Devils Tower and Indian Creek. Though he has dabbled in every form of rock ascent, he currently finds inspiration in big-wall free climbing. He spends most of his time either at home in Estes Park or on climbing trips to Yosemite Valley and around the world, always accompanied by his wife, Beth Rodden.
Pete deLannoy ("The Needles") first learned to climb in Wyoming's Wind River Mountains nearly thirty-eight years ago. What began as a general love for the mountains grew into a passion for rock climbing and a mission for new routes. Today he works as a full-time mountain guide for Exum Mountaineering, teaches middle-school science and writes about his exploits. He has a daughter, Tanner, and makes his home with his wife, Linda Salzmann, in Phoenix, Arizona.
Based in Chamonix, France, Monica Dalmasso ("Ice") divides her passion between the mountains, climbing, travel and photography. In ten years of the latter, she has shifted her focus from sport to commercial to agency work. Since 2001 she has been the official photographer of the Raid World Championship (formerly the Raid Gauloises). Her search for the perfect movement, her work on blurring and speed, as well as her detached view of the sports world enables her to work with all subjects related to motion.
By the time you read this, forty-six-year-old Canadian mountain guide and alpinist Barry Blanchard ("The Calling") will have spent exactly half his life in Canmore, Alberta. Those days are now gone: Barry, his wife, Catherine Mulvihill, their one-year-old miracle, Rosemary, and their two dogs have pulled stakes in favor of a smaller mountain town—Banff. "I'll continue working as an ambassador with Patagonia (do yourself a favor and read Yvon's new book, Let My People Go Surfing), guiding for Yamnuska Mountain Adventures, and trying to get after it in the alpine. And 'it' is evolving—all the time, partner, all the time."