The Revision of History

Posted on: December 1, 2005

[Top Left] June 9, 1957: Marcus Schmuck on the first ascent of the 8047-meter Broad Peak. The expedition was the first to climb an 8000er in the alpine style, but history has largelly overlooked Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller's role in the ascent. [Bottom Left] Broad Peak from Skil Brum, taken during the ascent and the position of the three camps are marked. [Right] The 1957 Broad Peak team. From the top: Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Herman Buhl, Kurt Diemberger and Qader Saeed. Buhl was the mountaineering leader of the trip, while Schmuck was the general leader of the expedition, but the hierarchy became troublesome during the climb. [Photo] Fritz Wintersteller

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