Posted on: December 1, 2005

From base camp on May 9, 2005, Will Mayo and I climbed the first 1,000 feet of Mt. Huntington's Harvard Route (Alaska Grade 5: VI 5.9 A2), and then traversed and descended for several thousand feet under Huntington's Phantom Wall to reach the base of its south peak. Three hundred feet of low-angle ice and rock and 600 feet of unprotected climbing up to (very thin) WI4+ and 5.8 brought us to what we had come for: 1,200 feet of beautiful seventy-degree ice in a narrow runnel that led directly to the summit. In the grand tradition of naming mountains after presidents, we named this one Idiot Peak (10,700'). Bush's legacy will live on forever now. After reversing our line on the way down, we completed our route, The Mini-intellectual (WI4+ R/X, 5.8) in a twenty-three-hour push round-trip.

Chris Thomas, Salt Lake City

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