Also in This Area
|
 CHOLATSE, TAWOCHEPosted on: December 1, 2005 
The northeast and north faces of Cholatse. [Photo] Ueli Steck On April 15 I made a solo ascent of the French Route (VI 90 degrees, 1400m) on Cholatse's north face with a new variant above 5900 meters. The grade is hard to tell—I encountered some rock up to 5+ M6 and ninety-degree ice. I found the route very difficult—thirty-seven hours of technical and sometimes dangerous climbing until I reached the summit at 4 p.m. On April 25 I soloed a route on the left side of the east face of Tawoche (6501m). This route mostly consisted of fifty- to sixty-degree ice. On the upper part I climbed several vertical ice pitches over seracs; on the lower part I had some mixed climbing, maybe M5.... I didn't use a rope, so I can't say exactly how many pitches I climbed overall, but the route was around 1500 meters long. I started from base camp at 11:30 p.m. and reached the summit at 4 a.m. I made it back to base camp by 8 a.m., in time for breakfast. advertisement
On May 3 and 4 I attempted the Stane Belak Strauf Memorial Route (VI 5.7 AI5 A2+, 1650m, Furlan-Humar) on the northwest face of Ama Dablam (6812m). I had already climbed above the crux pitch—above me was only some moderate ice—when I turned back at 5900 meters because of avalanche danger. But my decision was a good one: afterward it snowed for three days. It's a big game, soloing in the Himalaya! Ueli Steck, Interlaken, Switzerland
Here at Alpinist, our small editorial staff works hard to create in-depth stories that are thoughtfully edited, thoroughly fact-checked and beautifully designed. Please consider supporting our efforts by subscribing.
Racheltu
-^<a href="https://www.greattibettour.com " target="_blank"^>https://www.greattibettour.com Due to the tough natural environment with an averagely low temperature and small temperature gap, if you are planning a Tibet tour, need to Plan your tour with the help of a professional tour operator. Racheltu
Due to the tough natural environment with an averagely low temperature and small temperature gap, if you are planning a Tibet tour, need to Plan your tour with the help of a professional tour operator. -https://www.greattibettour.com cniraula
Very technical peak. height is not much but very hard. less climbers (staffs) are interested to go to this peak. - cn Kathmandu, Nepal. nepaltravelandtour.com welcomehimalaya.com nepal-expedition.com nepaltravelandtour.com/Trips/Nepal/Everest+Khumbu/Peak+Climbing/Chola+Tse+Peak+Climbing/54 |
Congratulations! I really admire your daring nature. Going solo on such a difficult climb! Wow! Hats off to you!
I hope you conquer many more mountains.
If you are planning to do more mountaineering in the Nepal Himalayas, please feel free to ^<a href="https://peregrinetreks.com/"^>contact Peregrine Trek. We will be more than happy to manage the trip for you.
Cheers!