CHOLATSE, TAWOCHE

Posted on: December 1, 2005


The northeast and north faces of Cholatse. [Photo] Ueli Steck

On April 15 I made a solo ascent of the French Route (VI 90 degrees, 1400m) on Cholatse's north face with a new variant above 5900 meters. The grade is hard to tell—I encountered some rock up to 5+ M6 and ninety-degree ice. I found the route very difficult—thirty-seven hours of technical and sometimes dangerous climbing until I reached the summit at 4 p.m.

On April 25 I soloed a route on the left side of the east face of Tawoche (6501m). This route mostly consisted of fifty- to sixty-degree ice. On the upper part I climbed several vertical ice pitches over seracs; on the lower part I had some mixed climbing, maybe M5.... I didn't use a rope, so I can't say exactly how many pitches I climbed overall, but the route was around 1500 meters long. I started from base camp at 11:30 p.m. and reached the summit at 4 a.m. I made it back to base camp by 8 a.m., in time for breakfast.

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On May 3 and 4 I attempted the Stane Belak Strauf Memorial Route (VI 5.7 AI5 A2+, 1650m, Furlan-Humar) on the northwest face of Ama Dablam (6812m). I had already climbed above the crux pitch—above me was only some moderate ice—when I turned back at 5900 meters because of avalanche danger. But my decision was a good one: afterward it snowed for three days.

It's a big game, soloing in the Himalaya!

Ueli Steck, Interlaken, Switzerland



Comments
cniraula

Very technical peak. height is not much but very hard. less climbers (staffs) are interested to go to this peak.

- cn Kathmandu, Nepal. nepaltravelandtour.com welcomehimalaya.com nepal-expedition.com nepaltravelandtour.com/Trips/Nepal/Everest+Khumbu/Peak+Climbing/Chola+Tse+Peak+Climbing/54

2012-01-31 17:08:34
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