Posted on: December 1, 2005

On July 10 a team of four climbers, Pavle Kozjek, Miha Lampreht, Branko Ivanek (all from Slovenia) and Aritza Monasterio (Basque, living in Peru) completed a route up the center of the southeast face of Trapecio (5644m). Jeff Lowe had climbed the hardest part of the route in 1985, but he turned back after the crux, some 250 meters below the top. He graded his climb ED+ (700m) and considered it one of his hardest solo climbs.

We began at 5 a.m. and immediately met with overhanging rock (A2 M5). There was much less ice on the wall than years ago and climbing conditions were varied. The easier middle part of the face led us to a vertical headwall (AI5/6, 80-90 degrees). Because of bad ice on the last steep pitch, we traversed thirty meters to the right and climbed an overhanging rock chimney (5.9) that opened the way to the upper snowfields. Two more steep pitches (AI4/5, 60-75 degrees) led almost directly to the top of Trapecio, which we reached at 5 p.m. We descended the north face, using headlamps, and arrived at base camp at 2:30 a.m., twenty-one and a half hours after beginning. We graded our first complete ascent of the Lowe Route ED+ (AI6 M5 A2, 800m).

Pavle Kozjek, Ljubljana, Slovenia

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