TITILIS, EAST FACE

Posted on: December 1, 2004


Markus Dorfleitner and Stephan Glowacz on Last Exit Titilis (8b, 500m), South Face- Titilis (3020m), Switzerland. [Photo] Klaus Fengler

The steep south face of Titilis (3020m) rises up over the Sustenpass in the Urner Alps. The isolated east face is another matter. Bernd Kullmann brought my attention to the untouched face in the summer of 2002. I was deeply impressed at once: the face is continuously steep and exposed. We discovered a logical route, but the rainy summer did not allow for any climbing. In 2003, Markus Dorfleitner, Peter Anzenberger and I pieced together a route on the face, but a hold broke when I was drilling the last pitch, and I fell, injuring my hip.

On July 4, Markus and I made the continuous redpoint of the route, Last Exit Titilis (8b, 500m), in 9:30. The thirteen pitches went at 6c+, 5c, 6c+, 8b, 7b, 6c+, 6c, 7a, 7a, 7b, 7a, 6c, 6c. Anybody repeating the route needs only ten quickdraws. Even so, the route has an alpine character. At some stages you had better not fall: the most difficult parts are up to five meters above the last bolts. We descended by rappelling the route.

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— Stephan Glowacz, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany



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