Table of Contents

profile

Mt. Hunter

Massively complex, stunningly beautiful, Mt. Hunter has been at the forefront of alpine innovation since its first ascent in 1954. Scott Backes recounts the history of this Alaska Range icon, while Fred Beckey, Peter Metcalf, Todd Bibler, Jack Tackle, Michael Kennedy and Ian Parnell help celebrate the fiftieth anniversary of the first ascent of a distinctly American peak.

climbing notes

MT. COMBATANT

FOURNEL CREST

TITILIS, EAST FACE

CHARAKUSA VALLEY

KANGCHUNGSTE, NORTH FACE

CHOGOLISA GLACIER

DENALI, CASSIN RIDGE

NALUMASORTOQ

AMIN BRAKK

GREAT TRANGO TOWER

MT. NEVERMORE, EAST FACE

DEVILS THUMB GROUP

editors note

Fear Itself

letters

Letters

Chopped bolts, French fries and the Playboy Bunny.

faces

Charles Snead Houston

Though he is perhaps best known for his first ascent of Nanda Devi (or is it his early attempts on K2?), Dr. Charlie Houston's explorations of high-altitude physiology have been a greater contribution to world climbing. Join us for a brief conversation with one of the pillars of American mountaineering as he reflects on family, medicine and the fellowship of the rope.

climbing life

The Climbing Life

Postcards from the vertical.

off belay

Off Belay

Rope tricks.

features content

Falling

To fly with the swallows, you first have to fall. America's boldest climber takes the plunge in Mexico—and finds that gravity works just fine south of the border, too.

The Adventures of Hardy Grimper

Hardy, Forrest, Kate and Bridget are in Kings Canyon, and Pops McCain can't be far behind. The Line from God hides a stash of cash—but will Hardy and Forrest survive long enough to reach it?

Growing Up in Estes

Tucked up against the t-shirt stands and fudge shops of Estes Park, Colorado, Lumpy Ridge and Rocky Mountain National Park provide just the place for a mountain boy to find his legs. For Tommy Caldwell, learning to love the mountains has always been a family affair.

Zion, Holy of Holies

Climbers and religion go together like fear and runouts. For one woman, conversations with God are all just part of the landscape.

Beat Kammerlander

Responsible for some of the hardest multipitch climbs in the world, Beat Kammerlander authors his routes the old-fashioned way: no previewing, ground up, drilling on lead and freeclimbing all the way. A pictorial celebration by a photographer who has been watching him climb for twenty years.

Smoke Show

Canada's Waddington Range has been lurking in the minds of North American climbers for more than sixty years, but a new guidebook has raised its profile. Two Canadian climbers work out the moves then go for the marbles on one of the range's finest new routes.

The Unveiling

When past attempts have climbed sixty pitches without getting to the top, you know you're up against a monster. Kelly Cordes and Josh Wharton took their Alpinist B-Team Grant to the southwest ridge of Great Trango Tower, where they found previous high points still had a long way to go.