Posted on: September 1, 2004

Insecure mixed climbing, a dropped crampon and route-finding challenges turned Steve House and Marko Prezelj’s new, north-face variation (House-Prezelj Variation: 5.9 A2) to the Lowe-Jones Route (VI 5.10 A3, 4,500', 1974) on North Twin (12,200'), April 5–7, 2004, into a psychological struggle and a transformative experience—demonstrating that alpinism is most alive within the mind of the observer. A full account of their expedition appears in Issue 8.

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