Table of Contents

profile

Thalay Sagar

The Devil's Red Wall, it has been called: a complex mountain with a north face as alluring as it is difficult. In 2003, Thalay Sagar, home to five routes, received three more. How timely. First ascentionists John Thackray and Roy Kligfield give us the historical perspective, while Haavard Nesheim, Tom Prentice, Andrew Lindblade, Mikhail Davy, Melvin Redeker, Stephane Benoist and Nikola Levakov reflect on their efforts on this Indian Garhwal classic.

climbing notes

NUPTSE EAST

PHARILAPCHA

ANNAPURNA III

QIONGLAI SHAN

YOSEMITE VALLEY

EYE TOOTH

EL CAPITAN

NALUMASORTOQ

SOUTH HOWSER TOWER

LOFOTEN ISLANDS

TAGHIA

QIONGLAI SHAN

TADRARATE

editors note

Less is More

letters

Letters

In which we revisit the damned.

faces

Henry Bradford Washburn

The Harvard Five—Robert Bates, H. Adams Carter, Charles Houston, Terris Moore and Bradford Washburn—helped shape the origins of American mountaineering. May we present to you one of them: Bradford Washburn, scientist, photographer, climber, cartographer, writer—at 93, as outspoken and willful as ever.

climbing life

The Climbing Life

Postcards from the vertical.

inmemoriam

In Memoriam

Jack Durrance, 1912-2003

off belay

Off Belay

The power of positive panties.

features content

The Dumpster Diaries

The climbing life, some would argue, is as much a creative expression as it is a lifestyle. Join us for a tour of Emilie Lee's journal, in which the two find an equilibrium.

The Adventures of Hardy Grimper

Dear Lord, we've done it now: Hardy's off on a whole new adventure. Join us for flashbacks, Harleys and drug deals gone bad as we wander into the genesis of this wayward tale.

The Kalamarka Arete

The sandstone towers of Northern Bohemia gave birth to modern free climbing more than a century ago. The rules of the game have not changed: ascent is still a matter of the mind.

A Climber's Tale

If he lived in America, Pavle Kozjek would be a household name. The Evolution of an alpinist, Slovenian style.