Posted on: December 1, 2003

the north face of Nuptse as seen from the southwest face of Mt. Everest, showing A) Nuptse East II (7659m). B) Pt. 7762m. C) Pt. 7776m D) Nuptse East I (7804m). E) Pt. 7827m. F) Nuptse Main Summit (7861m). G) Nuptse West I (7784m). H) Nuptse West II (7742m). 1) The North Face Route (Bettembourg-Hall-Rouse-Scott, 1979.) 2) 1999 Variation (Athans-Lapkass-Rhoads-Gelzen Sherpa). 3) The Crystal Snake (5.9 M4 WI5, ca. 1500m, Benegas-Benegas, 2003) The 1979 route was completed alpine-style over three days (October 17-19); previous to this ascent, Georges Bettembourg, Micahel Covington, and Doug Scott made the first ascent of Kusum Kanguru via the 1000-meter north buttres in three days. Teh two ascents were in preparation for an alpine-style attempt on the west ridge of Everest that failed to happen. The Crystal Snake was climbed over six says, most of which were spend down low on the technical terrain of the north buttress. [Photo] Doug Scott

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