Andrej Stremfelj [Photo] Giulio Malfer

Andrej Stremfelj

Posted on: December 1, 2002


After thirty years of alpinism, my enthusiasm for climbing and for mountains is no less now than it was at the beginning. During these years, certain things have changed, but that which got me started in the first place and kept me climbing all this time has not. I still love to climb; the movement of the body during climbing seems perfect to me. Alpinism takes place outdoors, and surviving in nature attracts me immensely. Alpinism provides me an opportunity to learn about nature, to challenge and admire it. Then, there are the friends. Alpinism has helped me build some very strong friendships, including with my wife Marija and my brother Marko.

In July and August, 2002, I celebrated the thirtieth anniversary of becoming an active alpinist by climbing thirty different routes on twenty-seven different faces in forty days. At the end I was surprised to find that I hadn't had enough. I enjoyed the last route just as much as the first one... even more.

The young people outgrew me in climbing a long time ago. All I can give them now is part of my rich experience. In the high mountains, such experience can be a key to survival. Expeditions are my only opportunity to pass on some of my knowledge to the new generation. The young quickly acquire pure technical knowledge, but it is much more demanding to show them the essence of alpinism, which is in my opinion of capital importance for success. This is one of my future challenges.

Translated, from the Slovenian, by Ana Percic

Andrej Stremfelj: curriculum vitae

1977: Southwest Ridge, Hidden Peak (8068m), new route.

1979: West Ridge, Mt. Everest (8848m), new route.

1981: South Face Direct, Lhotse (8516m), first attempt.

1983: Bezzubkin Route, Pik Communism (7495m), alpine-style ascent. South Face, Annapurna I (8091m), attempt.

1985: East Face, Dhaulagiri (8167m), new route.

1986: Lincelot Route, Grandes Jorasses (4208m), winter ascent.

1986: Normal Route, Broad Peak (8047m), with Marija Stremfelj, and Normal Route, Gasherbrum II (8035m), ascent. Both summits in seven days.

1988: "Magic Line" (west face), K2 (8611m), attempt.

1989: Walker Pillar, Grandes Jorasses (4208m), ascent, with Marija Stremfelj.

1989: South Face, Shishapangma (8027m), new route. South Face/West Ridge, Nyanang Ri (7057m), first ascent.

1990: South Col Route, Mt. Everest (8848m), with Marija Stremfelj (first couple to summit).

1991: South Pillar, Kangchenjunga South (8476m), new route.

1992: East Face, Menlungtse (7181m), first ascent.

1995: Born Under a Wandering Star, North Tower of Paine, new route. Normal Route, Cho Oyu (8201m), ascent, with Marija Stremfelj, in two days from base camp to summit.

1998: Colton-MacIntyre Route, Grandes Jorasses (4208m), winter ascent. Croz Pillar, Grandes Jorasses (4208m), winter ascent.

1999: Slovenian Route, North Face, Gyachung Kang (7952m), new route. North Face/East Ridge, Siguang Ri (7250m), new route.

2000: Leader of an expedition to the Nepal Himalaya to teach alpine-style climbing to young Slovenian climbers.

2001: Direct Nose Route, Sgur ean Fhidhler (Scotland), second free ascent.

2002: Climbing traverse of Slovenian Alps: thirty routes on twenty-seven different faces in forty days.

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