TRIGLAV

Posted on: December 1, 2002


Over three separate days in August, Matic Jost and I climbed a new route, Metropolis (5.11d, 350m), in the center of Triglav's north face. We found a good line between the Jubilejna and Skalaska routes in the lower part and between the Helba and Jubilejna routes in the upper part. On our first visit we climbed five fifty-meter pitches ground up, retreating because of bad weather. On our second visit, we added two aid pitches, completing the route. We free climbed the entire route on August 8.

The route features beautiful climbing on good rock. We left bolted belays and used ten bolts for lead protection and a few pitons on the route. Metropolis is not a sport climb; rather it is a serious alpine route with difficulties up to 5.11d. Friends, nuts and some pitons are necessary for good protection. The route finishes at the junction with the Skalaska Route; it is possible to descend either that route or by rapping Metropolis (two sixty-meter ropes required). You must be cautious on the first abseil due to the overhanging terrain and a pendulum.

- Tomaz Jakofcic, Slovenia

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