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The Alpinist Mountain Standards reviews apply Alpinist's tradition of excellence and authenticity to gear reviews by providing unbiased, candid feedback and anecdotal commentary to equipment tested (hard) in the field. Our panel is comprised of climbers who use the gear every day as part of their work and play. Only the gear they would actually buy themselves, at retail price, qualifies for the Alpinist Mountain Standards award. The five-star rating system is as follows: One Star = Piece of junk. Two Stars = Has one or more significant flaws, with some redeeming qualities. Three Stars = Average. This solid piece of gear is middle-of-the-road on the current market. Four Stars = Better than most comparable gear on the market. It has one or two drawbacks, but still 90% positive. Five Stars = Is there such thing as perfection? An Alpinist Mountain Standards award-winner. |
![]() If you want to fantasize about snow in the middle of summer, check out Miya Tsudome's review of the Patagonia Dual Aspect Jacket and Bibs. She reports that the company's proprietary H2No performance standard for waterproofing is lightweight and passed "the hose test," but it does give up some durability compared to Gore-Tex. Added pluses are that the garments are made from recycled materials and do not contain any perfluorinated chemicals in their waterproof finish, and the bibs are "bathroom compatible" for women. Tsudome writes: "I would recommend this kit to the serious alpinist who sees herself spending a lot of time climbing or skiing in mountain environments where water resistance and maneuverability from a hard shell are paramount." Five stars.
![]() Mountain Standards Gear Review: Yosemite big-wall ace Lance Colley has been using the unique Ocun WeBee Bigwall Harness. He writes: "The Ocun WeBee certainly isn't the harness I dream about while lying on the portaledge, but it is a welcome addition because it bridges the gap between a light cragging harness and the extreme bulkiness that defines nearly every other big wall harness.... Durability was my main concern with the WeBee, but it still looks great after using it on Tangerine Trip (VI 5.6 A3) and Zodiac (VI 5.7 A3) on El Capitan this spring.... Aid routes requiring big iron racks might be too much for this harness." Three stars.
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