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The Alpinist Mountain Standards reviews apply Alpinist's tradition of excellence and authenticity to gear reviews by providing unbiased, candid feedback and anecdotal commentary to equipment tested (hard) in the field. Our panel is comprised of climbers who use the gear every day as part of their work and play. Only the gear they would actually buy themselves, at retail price, qualifies for the Alpinist Mountain Standards award. The five-star rating system is as follows: No Stars = Piece of junk. One Star = Below average. Two Stars = Average. Three Stars = Above average. Four Stars = Pretty dang good. Five Stars = Nearly perfect. An Alpinist Mountain Standards award-winner. The reviewer would buy this piece themselves. Review Panel Aimee Barnes Chris Brazeau Larry Goldie Angela Hawse Sarah Hueniken Julia Niles John Race Will Stanhope Jon Walsh Jed Workman Editorial and Guest Reviewers |
Mammut is well known for making very nice climbing ropes and the Infinity 9.5mm is no exception. It fits the bill perfectly as many climbers seem to be choosing skinnier and lighter ropes these days for the majority of their climbing endeavors.
The Mammut Courmayeur Pant is our choice over the popular Champ due to it's reinforced patches over the knees, seat and cuff. They add durability and longevity from the daily wear and tear of crampons, ski edges and rocks.
It took me a while, but I have finally collected a bunch of Mammut Dyneema 8mm slings. You definitely notice the reduction in bulk and weight when you have a full allotment of these puppies for your rack, with all sizes from 30cm to 240cm lengths.
The Trango S EVO GTX is just as much a boot as it is a mouthful to say. It is one of the most versatile and comfortable three-season mountaineering boots ever. The last is wide enough for our fat American feet and the sole is moderately stiff which allows it to still be flexible enough for many miles of happy hiking.
I had a pair of these sticky rubber shoes last summer; I think I ran up the Grand Teton in them as well. These kicks provide excellent stability, sensitivity, rock adhesion and rock protection, whether it be a stroll around the lake or a tricky cairn laden climbers trail that peters out into granite.
While not the lightest or warmest insulating layer on the market, the Redpoint Optimus from The North Face shines as an extremely versatile piece. It provides the perfect amount of insulation for those stop and go activities when layered over or under your hardshell/softshell.
Kudos to The North Face for coming up with a great-fitting pack geared specifically for technical climbing. The Spire is available in 30, 33(w's), 38, and 45 liter capacities, so you can find what you need for both cragging and alpine routes. I am definitely a pack critic and often carve off fluff with my knife, but I have lugged this one up many peaks as is.
The Petzl Grigri self-braking belay/descender device is a true industry standard. What can I say about the Grigri that has not been said over the years? Sure, some people will tell you that the Grigri does not give a dynamic belay and therefore increases forces on gear placements, blah, blah,...these are the ones still using figure-eights. However, proper use should negate this issue.
There is a reason the Ecrin Roc is the most rented helmet in the world: it is nearly indestructible (more than we can say for our noggins), extremely adjustable and unquestionably comfortable.
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