Mountain Standards

Posted May 17, 2017

One Flashy Hoody: Ortovox Merino Fleece Light

Chris Van Leuven wears hoodies often and has tested his share of them. His latest review awards the Ortovox Merino Fleece Light Hoody four stars. Van Leuven reports that the Ortovox is lighter than many other tops, but in terms of loft and warmth it's similar to heavier ones.

Posted May 8, 2017

NW Alpine Eyebright Jacket: Burly and ultralight

Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz tested the NW Alpine Eyebright ultralight shell jacket, one of the lightest and most durable in its class because of its Dyneema construction. The jacket was structurally and functionally sound but it left some things to be desired when considering the hefty price tag.

Posted April 27, 2017

Arc'teryx Procline: One boot for skiing and ice climbing

An ice climbing boot that handles skis as well? Jess Roskelley tested the Arc'teryx Procline Carbon Lite boots and enjoyed their versatility for approaching and climbing routes in the snowy backcountry. He used the boots on mixed pitches and WI 6, and cruised out in full control of his skis on the way down—no more sliding into tree wells with soft boots mounted into Silveretta bindings! He awarded the Proclines four stars.

Posted April 18, 2017

The redesigned Five Ten Quantum: Versatile, high performance climbing shoes

The Five Ten Quantum rock shoes were designed to be an all-around, high performance shoe. Chris Van Leuven tested them on slabs, cracks and steeps, and on a variety of rock types: he scampered up them all, and was so pleased he awarded the redesigned Quantums five stars.

Posted April 3, 2017

Julbo Explorer 2.0: A worthy new member to a long, proud lineage of sunglasses

Julbo sunglasses continue to stand the test of time and perform as well as ever with modern technology. The Explorer 2.0, which is complete with photochromic lenses that rarely fog up. Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz would have awarded them a perfect five stars if it weren't for one shortcoming. Four stars.

Posted April 1, 2017

The Emperor Jacket: so lightweight and breathable, you'll hardly know it's there

Alpinist Fashion Editor Paula Rumpelshorts reviews the latest in alpine outerwear: the Emperor Jacket (so lightweight and breathable, you'll hardly know it's there).

Posted March 28, 2017

The Patagonia Hybrid Sleeping Bag: unconventional and efficient

Patagonia introduces a modern version of an old idea for an unconventional alpine sleeping bag—the Hybrid, which is intended to be used with an insulated jacket to avoid redundant layers and save precious space in your alpine kit. Ryan Wichelns awards it four stars.

Posted March 10, 2017

An Innovative Balance of Strength to Weight: Petzl Irvis Hybrid Crampons

Part steel, part aluminum, and with Dyneema cord in place of a metal bar to connect the two halves, Mike Lewis finds that the Petzl Irvis Hybrid Crampons hit a nice balance between durability and lightweight packability. He would have awarded them five stars if not for one shortcoming.

Posted March 4, 2017

Alpine Luddites White Light/White Heat backpack: custom-made to contentment

Alpinist Associate Editor Paula Wright puts the Alpine Luddites White Light/White Heat backpack to the test, awarding it four stars. The company takes an a la carte approach to the gear it sells so that minimalists will have only the accessories they want, such as the foam layer that comes in a customizable thickness and doubles as a "bivy pad."

Posted February 21, 2017

Warm, durable and breathable: Black Diamond First Light Hoody

The Black Diamond First Light Hoody does its job but it's bulky for climbing and some features could be improved. Chris Van Leuven gives it three stars.

Posted February 17, 2017

The Dynafit Yotei GTX Pant sets a new standard for getting around in the mountains

The Dynafit Yotei GTX Pants proved to be a versatile piece of outerwear for Mike Lewis, an AMGA-certified alpine guide, who reports that the pants work well for ski-touring and ice climbing while accommodating comfortable space for avalanche beacons and field books. The pants became his go-to option after testing them in Chile, Wyoming's Grand Tetons and Canada. He awards them five stars.

Posted February 7, 2017

Arc'teryx Alpha SV hard-shell jacket: A haven from the worst storms

The Arc'teryx Alpha SV Jacket is a specialized piece of clothing built for the harshest climbing situations. Drew Thayer put it to the test on a month-long expedition in Alaska and awarded it five stars.

Posted January 27, 2017

A slim workhorse: Edelrid Topaz Pro Dry CT 9.2mm rope

The 9.2mm Edelrid Topaz Pro Dry CT is a skinny rope that handles like a mid-weight. Chris Van Leuven has put thin cords to the test before, and he was mostly pleased with this one, awarding it four stars.

Posted January 18, 2017

La Sportiva TX2: Blurring the line between climbing and approach shoes

The La Sportiva TX2 approach shoes shine brightly on fast-and-light rock missions when you need to carry your approach shoes with you on the climb. Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz awards them five stars.

Posted January 3, 2017

VOORMI River Run Hoodie: A featherweight top for all seasons

The VOORMI River Run Hoodie keeps Chris Van Leuven comfy in all kinds of conditions, from rainy trails and toothy offwidths to social scenes. He awards it five stars.

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