Mountain Standards

Posted August 8, 2005

La Sportiva Trango S EVO GTX

The Trango S EVO GTX is just as much a boot as it is a mouthful to say. It is one of the most versatile and comfortable three-season mountaineering boots ever. The last is wide enough for our fat American feet and the sole is moderately stiff which allows it to still be flexible enough for many miles of happy hiking.

Posted August 1, 2005

Vasque Pingoras

I had a pair of these sticky rubber shoes last summer; I think I ran up the Grand Teton in them as well. These kicks provide excellent stability, sensitivity, rock adhesion and rock protection, whether it be a stroll around the lake or a tricky cairn laden climbers trail that peters out into granite.

Posted August 1, 2005

The North Face Redpoint Optimus Jacket

While not the lightest or warmest insulating layer on the market, the Redpoint Optimus from The North Face shines as an extremely versatile piece. It provides the perfect amount of insulation for those stop and go activities when layered over or under your hardshell/softshell.

Posted August 1, 2005

The North Face Spire Packs

Kudos to The North Face for coming up with a great-fitting pack geared specifically for technical climbing. The Spire is available in 30, 33(w's), 38, and 45 liter capacities, so you can find what you need for both cragging and alpine routes. I am definitely a pack critic and often carve off fluff with my knife, but I have lugged this one up many peaks as is.

Posted August 1, 2005

Petzl Grigri

The Petzl Grigri self-braking belay/descender device is a true industry standard. What can I say about the Grigri that has not been said over the years? Sure, some people will tell you that the Grigri does not give a dynamic belay and therefore increases forces on gear placements, blah, blah,...these are the ones still using figure-eights. However, proper use should negate this issue.

Posted August 1, 2005

Petzl Ecrin Roc Helmet

There is a reason the Ecrin Roc is the most rented helmet in the world: it is nearly indestructible (more than we can say for our noggins), extremely adjustable and unquestionably comfortable.

Posted July 31, 2005

Mountain Safety Research Titan Cookware

MSR’s Titan cookware feels like it's not even there when it's in your pack, which is just what the titanium is supposed to do. These "light is right" pots help keep you charging ahead, for the long haul.

Posted July 31, 2005

Mountain Safety Research SuperFly Stove

MSR, Minimal...Simple…Reliable…, these are all words that come to mind when describing the Superfly from Mountain Safety Research. This lightweight (4.6 oz) torch will provide endless performance for years. Its clean, basic design has minimal moving parts making it less likely to fall apart when you really need it.

Posted July 31, 2005

Mountain Hardwear EV2 Tent

The Mountain Hardwear EV2 tent is so high tech, when I'm in it, I feel as if I am in the space shuttle. With its integrated vestibule, it's kind of shaped like one too. The three-pole design and non-stretching fabric reinforcements make it out-of-this-world sturdy against the warp-speed winds at high altitude.

Posted July 30, 2005

Cloudveil Serendipitiy Jacket

This jacket demonstrates Cloudveil's ability to create clothing that performs well in the backcountry yet also corners the fashion market for the "post-adventure" night out on the town.

Posted July 30, 2005

Charlet Moser Atzar

"Wow" is the typical reaction I get when showing the Charlet Moser Atzar Ice Tool.

Posted July 30, 2005

Therm-a-Rest Prolite 3

This is the kind of sleeping pad that should not be allowed near El Cap. It is far too precious to be rubbing up against harsh granite all night long. After all, we must treat this "super-food" of the gear world with the utmost care and respect. This superlight pad keeps your hips happy and consciousness in deep slumber without adding any more weight than necessary.

Posted July 30, 2005

Black Diamond C4 Camalots

When Craig Luebben assigned Curt Love and me Cloud Tower for the last day of our AMGA Rock Guide Exam, we were psyched. Our first question was, "Can we borrow your rack of new C4s?" The weight difference, at 20-percent less, was very noticeable.

Posted July 30, 2005

Arc'teryx Gamma MX Hoody

It hurts to take off the Arc'teryx Gamma MX Hoody as the temperatures rise here in the Tetons and hardshells become the jacket de jour. I have become so attached to this jacket that I can't wait for the winter months to arrive so I can put it back into the rotation.

Posted July 30, 2005

Black Diamond Lighthouse Tent

At 3lb 3oz, and 30.8 sq. ft. of space, the Lighthouse is an awesome choice when space, weight and strength are priorities. It is surprising that a tent this light can also be so sturdy.

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