Mountain Standards

Posted July 13, 2006

La Sportiva Exum Ridge, the best approach shoe we know

After enduring nearly a year of abuse throughout the Tetons, La Sportiva's Exum Ridge has established itself as my go-to shoe for approaches and scrambles up to easy fifth class.



Posted July 1, 2006

MSR XGK EX stove works wonders in Canadian Rockies, Karakorum

I was pretty psyched when the new MSR XGK EX recently showed up at my door for testing. Being well acquainted with its predecessor from a number of trips before, I was immediately impressed with its new looks and features. The first things I noticed were the flexible fuel line, which is definitely the biggest improvement, followed by the slick, ultra stable retractable legs and pot supports, which compact neatly to fit in a 1.5 Liter pot.



Posted June 14, 2006

Innovative CiloGear backpack stands up to Everest, Sierra test

The CiloGear WorkSacks are innovative. They can compress without straps or zippers for ultimate functionality, however, they do come with straps for added security. They are super light weight.



Posted June 2, 2006

Marmot jacket makes any adventurer a Super Hero

Ever since I got the Marmot Super Hero Jacket, I've worn it every day on the hill, and quite often off the hill. I've gotten more compliments on the jacket than on any item of skiwear I've ever owned (except maybe my neon green Obermeyer pants, but that's another story), and it's by far one of the most practical pieces I've ever had.



Posted May 25, 2006

Sierra ski mountaineering easy with Sterling Rope 7.7mm Ice Thong

When the Sterling Ice Thong 7.7mm 30-meter twin rope arrived at my door, I spent the night rearranging my gear in different backpacks to see how well it stored in each. I was so stoked to see how little space it took up in my daypack.



Posted April 27, 2006

Praise for Manzella Arch Angel alpine glove

These gloves are hot! As in warm – and stylish. The Manzella Arch Angel accompanied me this spring to Aspen where I competed in the Colorado Freeskiing Championships. It happened to be a cold, stormy weekend, dumping two feet of snow over the course of a few days. I was worried that I couldn't see the cliffs I was about to drop, but I wasn't worried about my hands staying warm.



Posted March 27, 2006

Patagonia Down Jacket

I was psyched when Vanessa handed me the Patagonia Men's Down Jacket at the Snake River Brew Pub in Jackson Hole to try out. I was in town for some AMGA training and spent time touring in Grand Teton National Park and on Teton Pass. After wearing it around Jackson and some in the Northwest – where I'm based – I’ve found it very comfortable, well designed, and of course, warm.



Posted March 14, 2006

MSR Wind 2 holds up in windiest conditions

During my first outing, the gusty winds and generally stormy conditions were enough to force my partner and I to descend from three quarters of the way up Cerro Torre's Compressor Route. Upon returning to camp on the Torre Glacier's "Sandy Wash," we were stoked to find the MSR Wind 2, standing as we left it, holding its own against the catabatic's ripping down from the Hielo Sur (the Southern Ice cap).



Posted February 22, 2006

Patagonia RI Granular Jacket great for all occasions

I spent over a week in the Canadian Rockies and the R1 Granular Jacket hardly ever left my body. I don't think I can say enough about this piece from Patagonia. As someone who has eliminated many fleece garments for typical layering in recent years I've found that the R1 is already indispensable for me.



Posted February 9, 2006

Petzl Corax Harness

This harness is a Cadillac for comfort and Petzl's slick buckle system helps keep you safe without having to double back the waist belt or leg loops. This feature also makes it super fast to change layers on the move. I've used the Corax extensively for rock climbing, ice climbing and alpine routes.



Posted February 1, 2006

Vasque Ice 9000

I put these boots to the test on Denali. They sailed me up and down the mountain attached to snowshoes, skis and crampons. I wore them nonstop for 21 days (when I wasn't sleeping or lucky enough to be in my down booties) and never got a single blister.



Posted January 25, 2006

Having a Petzl Reverso means one-stop shopping

Petzl again led the pack in bringing us this super versatile, self-braking belay device. Most other manufacturers have scrambled to follow suit, but the Reverso still gets my vote for simplicity and smooth feed in all categories.



Posted December 6, 2005

La Sportiva Exum Ridge Approach Shoe

When La Sportiva first came out with the Exum Ridge approach shoe, it was a winner. I wore mine up and down the Grand Teton guiding moderate routes during many long days in the mountains until they practically fell off my feet, threadbare.



Posted November 27, 2005

Vasque M-Finity boots bring you back home

For me, a good mountain boot not only has to climb well, it has to get me to the climb. I'm not carrying a boot on my back, I'm going to wear it all day, there and back. I checked out the Vasque M-Finity on the 13,770-foot Grand Teton during the early part of last summer.



Posted November 14, 2005

Marmot Lithium Sleeping Bag

I am psyched that winter is on its way, so I can start using the Marmot Lithium Sleeping Bag again. Before I received this sack, I had been using a negative 20-degree option lined with a waterproof shell, from a leading competitor. When I first tried the Lithium from Marmot, I was amazed at how warm it kept me, at almost 2 pounds less in weight.



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