Mountain Standards

Posted March 21, 2018

The Blue Ice Warthog 40L Pack: a worthy, alpine-specific workhorse

After lugging the Blue Ice Warthog 40L backpack around the mountains for several months, IFMGA/AMGA guide Mike Lewis came to some conclusions: the pack is ideal for ice, rock and alpine climbing (5 stars for that category), but the lack of a padded hip belt makes it less comfortable to carry long distances when you're not wearing a harness and you want to load more of the pack weight onto the hips instead of the shoulders. "For someone who is specifically looking for a pack with an unpadded, removable hip belt for technical climbing, this pack is a slam-dunk," Lewis writes.

Posted March 5, 2018

Lowa Approach Pro GTX Lo: A go-everywhere shoe

If Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz had to pick just one type of shoe to wear for the rest of his life, there's no doubt it would be a pair of approach shoes. The Lowa Approach Pro Los have become his first choice to wear everywhere, all the time. Five stars.

Posted February 14, 2018

MSR Advance Pro 2 Ultralight: a single-wall, four-season tent that is simple and convenient

Mallorie Estenson, an alpine guide and climber based in the Pacific Northwest, has been using the MSR Advance Pro 2 Ultralight—a single-wall, four-season tent—on some ski-mountaineering trips in Washington this winter. The tent is intended to be simple and compact so that it can fit onto narrow ledges found on the side of a mountain. Estenson reports that it was light, easy to set up, and comfortable enough for her to give it four stars.

Posted February 3, 2018

The Blue Ice Yeti 50L Pack: Small innovations that make an impact

Blue Ice is a small, relatively new company that started in a garage in Europe and now has a presence in North America. IFMGA/AMGA guide Mike Lewis has been using the Blue Ice Yeti 50L backpack, and aside from a few details that didn't comply with his exact personal preferences, he liked it well enough to award it five stars.

Posted January 16, 2018

Mountain Equipment Citadel Mitt: A bastion of warmth in a light package

Alaskan alpinist Clint Helander finds the Mountain Equipment Citadel Mitt to be a lightweight and versatile option for climbs that require cutting down on bulk and extra grams. Five stars.

Posted January 3, 2018

Sterling WorkPro: A static rope that is supple with a high strength-to-weight ratio

Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz recently used the Sterling WorkPro static line to haul a 100-pound bag on his first solo big wall. The WorkPro was supple, strong and durable—everything you'd want from a static rope. Five stars.

Posted December 24, 2017

Black Diamond ATC Pilot: A solid one trick pony

Chris Van Leuven used the Black Diamond ATC Pilot to catch gear-ripping falls and liked its simple design and smooth rope handling so well that it became his go-to belay device for single-pitch cragging. Five stars.

Posted December 20, 2017

Mountain Equipment Xeros 7-degree F down sleeping bag: Among the best in its class

Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz used the Mountain Equipment Xeros 800-fill, Russian Goose Down bag in warm, sweaty conditions as well as cold, wet ones, and the bag kept him remarkably dry and comfortably warm. "I have never experienced a more efficient sleeping bag," he reports. Five stars.

Posted December 8, 2017

Sterling Fusion Nano IX: A versatile rope that is light and dry

Whitney Clark takes the Sterling Fusion Nano IX along for some rugged granite adventures in Yosemite and the Sierra Nevada mountains. The 9mm rope can be used as a thick half-rope or a skinny single rope, and features Sterling's new DryXP treatment, which exceeds the UIAA certification of less than 5 percent water absorption, keeping the rope light and durable in even the wettest conditions. Clark put those claims to the test and awarded the Fusion Nano IX five stars.

Posted December 3, 2017

Petzl Sirocco: The pinnacle of lightweight climbing helmets

BJ Sbarra reports on his experience with Petzl's redesigned Sirocco helmet, and reflects on the evolution of climbing's head protection. The new Sirocco is more durable and lighter than ever, making it one of the best all-around helmets available.

Posted October 17, 2017

A worthy three-season boot: La Sportiva Trango Tower GTX

Photographer Jeremy Joseph used the La Sportiva Trango Tower GTX boots for miles of hiking to access the most scenic locations in Colorado's fourteeners. He was mostly happy with the boots' performance, and he awarded them four stars.

Posted September 21, 2017

BASU eAlarm: A versatile device in bear country

Clint Helander lives, works and climbs in Alaska, where the risk of bear encounters is a regular hazard. He tested the BASU eAlarm and found it to be a versatile and helpful device.

Posted September 11, 2017

The Hilleberg Nammatj 2 GT: A well-designed expedition shelter

Mary Harlan, an AMGA-trained rock, ice, snow and ski guide, compares the new Hilleberg Nammatj 2 GT to the Hilleberg design she used on Denali in 2012. She and her husband stayed comfortable in the tent on a spring backcountry ski trip but would have liked to have had more interior pockets. Four stars.

Posted September 6, 2017

Patagonia Nano-Air Light Hoody: Versatile and breathable

Alpinist contributor Whitney Clark tests the durability, warmth and water-resistance of the Patagonia Nano-Air Light Hoody. It did its job but she longed for a built-in stuff sack that would have allowed her to clip it to her harness. Four stars.

Posted August 29, 2017

The Petzl GriGri+ is more durable and has more safety features

The new GriGri+ is heavier and packed with new features, such as a switch for toprope/lead-belay modes and an anti-panic function. Chris Van Leuven learns why the GriGri+ doesn't replace the GriGri 2 yet still adds a worthwhile option to the family of Petzl belay devices. Four stars.

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