Mountain Standards

Posted January 16, 2018

Mountain Equipment Citadel Mitt: A bastion of warmth in a light package

Alaskan alpinist Clint Helander finds the Mountain Equipment Citadel Mitt to be a lightweight and versatile option for climbs that require cutting down on bulk and extra grams. Five stars.



Posted January 3, 2018

Sterling WorkPro: A static rope that is supple with a high strength-to-weight ratio

Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz recently used the Sterling WorkPro static line to haul a 100-pound bag on his first solo big wall. The WorkPro was supple, strong and durable—everything you'd want from a static rope. Five stars.



Posted December 24, 2017

Black Diamond ATC Pilot: A solid one trick pony

Chris Van Leuven used the Black Diamond ATC Pilot to catch gear-ripping falls and liked its simple design and smooth rope handling so well that it became his go-to belay device for single-pitch cragging. Five stars.



Posted December 20, 2017

Mountain Equipment Xeros 7-degree F down sleeping bag: Among the best in its class

Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz used the Mountain Equipment Xeros 800-fill, Russian Goose Down bag in warm, sweaty conditions as well as cold, wet ones, and the bag kept him remarkably dry and comfortably warm. "I have never experienced a more efficient sleeping bag," he reports. Five stars.



Posted December 8, 2017

Sterling Fusion Nano IX: A versatile rope that is light and dry

Whitney Clark takes the Sterling Fusion Nano IX along for some rugged granite adventures in Yosemite and the Sierra Nevada mountains. The 9mm rope can be used as a thick half-rope or a skinny single rope, and features Sterling's new DryXP treatment, which exceeds the UIAA certification of less than 5 percent water absorption, keeping the rope light and durable in even the wettest conditions. Clark put those claims to the test and awarded the Fusion Nano IX five stars.



Posted December 3, 2017

Petzl Sirocco: The pinnacle of lightweight climbing helmets

BJ Sbarra reports on his experience with Petzl's redesigned Sirocco helmet, and reflects on the evolution of climbing's head protection. The new Sirocco is more durable and lighter than ever, making it one of the best all-around helmets available.



Posted October 17, 2017

A worthy three-season boot: La Sportiva Trango Tower GTX

Photographer Jeremy Joseph used the La Sportiva Trango Tower GTX boots for miles of hiking to access the most scenic locations in Colorado's fourteeners. He was mostly happy with the boots' performance, and he awarded them four stars.



Posted September 21, 2017

BASU eAlarm: A versatile device in bear country

Clint Helander lives, works and climbs in Alaska, where the risk of bear encounters is a regular hazard. He tested the BASU eAlarm and found it to be a versatile and helpful device.



Posted September 11, 2017

The Hilleberg Nammatj 2 GT: A well-designed expedition shelter

Mary Harlan, an AMGA-trained rock, ice, snow and ski guide, compares the new Hilleberg Nammatj 2 GT to the Hilleberg design she used on Denali in 2012. She and her husband stayed comfortable in the tent on a spring backcountry ski trip but would have liked to have had more interior pockets. Four stars.



Posted September 6, 2017

Patagonia Nano-Air Light Hoody: Versatile and breathable

Alpinist contributor Whitney Clark tests the durability, warmth and water-resistance of the Patagonia Nano-Air Light Hoody. It did its job but she longed for a built-in stuff sack that would have allowed her to clip it to her harness. Four stars.



Posted August 29, 2017

The Petzl GriGri+ is more durable and has more safety features

The new GriGri+ is heavier and packed with new features, such as a switch for toprope/lead-belay modes and an anti-panic function. Chris Van Leuven learns why the GriGri+ doesn't replace the GriGri 2 yet still adds a worthwhile option to the family of Petzl belay devices. Four stars.



Posted August 10, 2017

Good To-Go backcountry meals: Nutritious and as good as dehydrated recipes can get

Alpinist Digital Editor Derek Franz generally avoids the packaged, freeze-dried or dehydrated meals when he goes camping, but he sampled several Good To-Go meal varieties in the backcountry with his wife, and they agreed the recipes were the best they'd ever tried for this type of food. The meals were flavorful and nutritious, replenishing tired bodies after long days of playing in the mountains, but still had the usual drawbacks of dehydrated ingredients, such as texture and digestion. Five stars.



Posted July 31, 2017

Front and Center: Patagonia's 850 Down Sleeping Bag 19F/-7C performs well, starting with the unusual zipper location

Mike Lewis spent 58 nights in the Patagonia 850 Down Sleeping Bag (19°F/-7°C) and slept well enough to award it five stars. He noted that there are some features that could be improved but he is otherwise impressed with the company's first sleeping bag designs.



Posted July 20, 2017

The La Sportiva Kataki: A great shoe for vertical to moderately overhanging rock climbs

Derek Franz stepped into the new La Sportiva Kataki rock shoes and is impressed with their performance on "tiny little nothings." He found that the shoes functioned well for their intended purpose of climbing vertical to moderately overhanging terrain. Five stars.



Posted July 11, 2017

Boreal Stetind: Light and comfy for slogging, but not well designed for technical climbing

Mike Lewis used the Boreal Stetind boots for six weeks of guiding on snowy mountains in the Pacific Northwest and reports that the boots have some significant shortcomings in technical terrain. In this review he explains in detail why he awarded them two stars out of five.



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