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Derek Franz / January 16
Quentin Lindfield Roberts / January 7
In this Full Value story from Alpinist 64, Quentin Lindfield Roberts confronts the long journey home and the occasionally even-greater dangers of daily life after his climbing partner nearly dies in an accident on Cerro Torre.
Scott Coldiron / December 28
After recovering from a severe illness in the wake of the Gulf War, veteran Scott Coldiron returns to his long-abandoned climbing dreams--exploring new ice in remote parts of Montana's Cabinet Mountains Wilderness. In this On Belay story from Alpinist 64, Coldiron traces the formative experiences of his hard-knock childhood, his discovery of what the mountains offered, and how he found his way back to the peaks that first stirred his imagination.
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Black Diamond Reactor Ice Tools: A solid choice for cragging and steep ice
The new Petzl Nomic: Same swing with new picks, a mini hammer, functional spike and improved handle
North Face Women's Summit L4 Softshell Pants: A good choice for alpine climbers
SPOT X 2-Way Satellite Messenger: A worthy tool for explorers and risk-takers
Osprey Mutant 22: A go-to for the no-frills, fast-and-light climber
Todd Preston / January 10
Hyalite Canyon local Todd Preston tested out the new Black Diamond Ultralight Express screws on some of Montana's classic ice climbs. He concluded, "For...pursuits where weight savings can be critical, the Ultralights are clearly the new gold standard and I would rate them 5 stars. However, several days of climbing frozen waterfalls using both Ultralights and traditional Express screws revealed some design limitations...." Four stars.
4 out of 5 stars
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Nina Glazunov-Neverov
From October 1-6, 2018, Nina Glazunov-Neverov shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about the life of her husband Sergey Glazunov, who reached a historic highpoint with Alexander Gukov on the North Ridge of Latok I (7145m) in Pakistan. During their descent, on July 25, Sergey Glazunov fell to his death. He was only 26 years old. Gukov was subsequently stranded for a week at 6200 meters before he was rescued by a dramatic helicopter operation, flown by Pakistani pilots Major Qazi Muhammad Mazhar-ud-Din, Major Abid Rafique, Lieutenant Colonel Muhammad Anjum Rafique and Major Fakhar-e-Abbas. Sergey Glazunov had often climbed with his brother Evgeniy. Glazunov-Neverov said she may take some time before she pursues serious mountaineering again. "I want to continue Sergey's hobby but I need to think about this," she said. Meanwhile, she said that Evgeniy wants to keep supporting young mountaineers in memory of his brother.
From October 16-22, 2016, Anna Piunova shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about some of her travels while working as the editor for Mountain.RU. Piunova recently helped coordinate a dramatic helicopter rescue for Alexander Gukov, who was stranded for a week at 6200 meters on the North Ridge of Latok I in Pakistan after his partner Sergey Glazunov fell to his death while rappelling. Anna lives in Moscow, Russia, and has edited Mountain.RU, the premier climbing website for Russian-language speakers, since 1999.
From October 30 through November 5, 2016, Krystle Wright shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about paragliding in Pakistan. On a previous paragliding expedition to Pakistan in 2011, she suffered serious injuries during a tandem flight on takeoff and was lucky to escape with her life. The premature end to her trip kindled a desire to return and chase a perfect dream flight over the Karakoram. As a photographer, she prefers to paraglide in a tandem unit so that she has the freedom to focus on shooting. The Australian is often traveling and considers the open road her home. She is also a climber, skier and freediver. Her photo essay "In Perpetual Motion"--which explores "the void and the unspoken"--is featured in Alpinist 62, which is now available on newsstands and in our online store.
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