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Derek Franz / March 11
Cameron Burns / March 13
In this Climbing Life story from Alpinist 65, Cameron M. Burns learns to belay from an eccentric mentor before braving his way up Castleton Tower with a couple of friends and a few hexes.
Katie Ives / March 8
In recognition of International Women's Day, we're now sharing this Sharp End story by Alpinist Editor-in-Chief Katie Ives that first appeared in Alpinist 65, which is now available on newsstands and in our online store. Ives writes, "I became fascinated by recurring myths and images in the ways that climbers interpret fragments of existence. And as I looked for more examples, I grew absorbed by the sheer volume of alpine fiction written by and about women.... For authors [during the turn of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries], alpine settings seemed to offer their heroines a level of empowerment that they rarely found in cities.... 'Why do we want to have alternate worlds?' asked the fantasy writer Joan Aiken in Locus Magazine (1998), 'You have to imagine something before you do it.'"
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Patagonia Micro Puff Storm Jacket: Everyday layering for cold, wet conditions
Mountain Equipment Tupilak 30+: Simple, light and 'hardcore'
Black Diamond Ultralight Express screws: A versatile screw for a more refined audience
Black Diamond Reactor Ice Tools: A solid choice for cragging and steep ice
The new Petzl Nomic: Same swing with new picks, a mini hammer, functional spike and improved handle
Clint Helander / March 14
Clint Helander tested the La Sportiva Trango Tower Extreme GTX boots on some Alaskan ice climbs and cannot think of a single con. He reports that the Trango Towers are the "new iteration" of the discontinued "silver bullet" EVO Extremes and that these boots are "ideal for ice/mixed climbing and single-day mountaineering." Five stars.
5 out of 5 stars
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Nina Glazunov-Neverov
From October 1-6, 2018, Nina Glazunov-Neverov shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about the life of her husband Sergey Glazunov, who reached a historic highpoint with Alexander Gukov on the North Ridge of Latok I (7145m) in Pakistan. During their descent, on July 25, Sergey Glazunov fell to his death. He was only 26 years old. Gukov was subsequently stranded for a week at 6200 meters before he was rescued by a dramatic helicopter operation, flown by Pakistani pilots Major Qazi Muhammad Mazhar-ud-Din, Major Abid Rafique, Lieutenant Colonel Muhammad Anjum Rafique and Major Fakhar-e-Abbas. Sergey Glazunov had often climbed with his brother Evgeniy. Glazunov-Neverov said she may take some time before she pursues serious mountaineering again. "I want to continue Sergey's hobby but I need to think about this," she said. Meanwhile, she said that Evgeniy wants to keep supporting young mountaineers in memory of his brother.
From October 16-22, 2016, Anna Piunova shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about some of her travels while working as the editor for Mountain.RU. Piunova recently helped coordinate a dramatic helicopter rescue for Alexander Gukov, who was stranded for a week at 6200 meters on the North Ridge of Latok I in Pakistan after his partner Sergey Glazunov fell to his death while rappelling. Anna lives in Moscow, Russia, and has edited Mountain.RU, the premier climbing website for Russian-language speakers, since 1999.
From October 30 through November 5, 2016, Krystle Wright shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about paragliding in Pakistan. On a previous paragliding expedition to Pakistan in 2011, she suffered serious injuries during a tandem flight on takeoff and was lucky to escape with her life. The premature end to her trip kindled a desire to return and chase a perfect dream flight over the Karakoram. As a photographer, she prefers to paraglide in a tandem unit so that she has the freedom to focus on shooting. The Australian is often traveling and considers the open road her home. She is also a climber, skier and freediver. Her photo essay "In Perpetual Motion"--which explores "the void and the unspoken"--is featured in Alpinist 62, which is now available on newsstands and in our online store.
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