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Derek Franz
/ January 18
Benjamin Ribeyre and Erin Smart
/ January 3
For 141 years since its first ascent, mountaineers from around the world traveled to climb la Meije in the Massif des Ecrins of France. Meanwhile, the permafrost that held its stones together was melting. On August 7, 2018, rockfall destroyed much of the normal route. In this On Belay story from Alpinist 68, two locally based guides--Benjamin Ribeyre and Erin Smart--recount a search for a new way up the peak amid the uncertainties of the planet's future.
John Hessler
/ December 23
In this Tool Users story that first appeared in Alpinist 68--which is now available on newsstands and in our online store--John Hessler explores the history of an energy bar invented in 1869: the famously (or infamously) sweet Kendal Mint Cake.
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Edelrid Bulletproof quickdraw: The burliness of steel with the lightness of aluminum
Sea to Summit Flame IV: A warm ultralight sleeping bag tailored specifically for women
Salewa Wildfire Edge: Technical approach shoes to keep up with the mountain goats
Peak Refuel Meals: setting a high bar for freeze-dried food
Unparallel Up Lace: A new company presents a new take on a familiar shoe
Scott Coldiron
/ December 13
Scott Coldiron has a lot of experience when it comes to staying warm on frozen alpine routes. He's been using the Valandre Troll jacket in Montana's Cabinet Range and reports, "Simply put, this jacket lofts better under all conditions than other down jackets I've used, and the resulting warmth it creates is impressive." It's also more expensive, however, and it lacks a couple features he would've liked to have. Four stars.
4 out of 5 stars
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Mike Libecki
From March 19-25, 2017, Mike Libecki shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about an expedition to Greenland in 2015 to climb a remote, unclimbed peak, which he'd named the Polar Bear Fang after finding it on maps and reconnoitering the approach by boat on different trips through the years. He had tried to reach the Fang--which he is certain is in a never-before visited area--on several occasions, but he had been shut down nearly every time because of sea ice, and once because there were too many polar bears to get off the boat. On this last attempt, he'd planned to go alone, but that quickly changed.
From October 1-6, 2018, Nina Glazunov-Neverov shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about the life of her husband Sergey Glazunov, who reached a historic highpoint with Alexander Gukov on the North Ridge of Latok I (7145m) in Pakistan. During their descent, on July 25, Sergey Glazunov fell to his death. He was only 26 years old. Gukov was subsequently stranded for a week at 6200 meters before he was rescued by a dramatic helicopter operation, flown by Pakistani pilots Major Qazi Muhammad Mazhar-ud-Din, Major Abid Rafique, Lieutenant Colonel Muhammad Anjum Rafique and Major Fakhar-e-Abbas. Sergey Glazunov had often climbed with his brother Evgeniy. Glazunov-Neverov said she may take some time before she pursues serious mountaineering again. "I want to continue Sergey's hobby but I need to think about this," she said. Meanwhile, she said that Evgeniy wants to keep supporting young mountaineers in memory of his brother.
From October 16-22, 2016, Anna Piunova shared some stories and photos with the #AlpinistCommunityProject about some of her travels while working as the editor for Mountain.RU. Piunova recently helped coordinate a dramatic helicopter rescue for Alexander Gukov, who was stranded for a week at 6200 meters on the North Ridge of Latok I in Pakistan after his partner Sergey Glazunov fell to his death while rappelling. Anna lives in Moscow, Russia, and has edited Mountain.RU, the premier climbing website for Russian-language speakers, since 1999.
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